Thread: Setting up a D4 for a 2.5t Caravan

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

Check all van tyres pressures, ( I think you should run these as hard as you can, I imagine sidewall flex[van sway] in these tall offroad tyres would be quite noticeable).

Good grief no!!!! Shakes the crap out of the van!!!

I run the van at 28 psi.... run the camper at whatever the manufacturer tells you to...

Originally Posted by Tombie

Trailer stability assist is always active...

All the major changes are - trailer indicator light, turns off reverse sensors, disables auto suspension raise in TR...

Other than that it will still drive fine...

Sorry Tombie, what is TR? Pardon my ignorance mate.

Also, will the suspension automatically sort itself out if no trailer is detected? I.e. does the self leveling component still work if no trailer detected?

I can see the reverse sensors going off when in reverse would drive me nuts. Perhaps it's time I read up some basics on electrical wiring so I can put a resistor in myself.

Scott, have a look at the recent post "D4 not detecting trailer wiring" a few posts down. There is a photo of one good idea where the poster has added resistors to a trailer plug adaptor. It should be easy for an auto electrician to do this for you and I would put it in the adaptor that goes from the round D4 plugs to the trailer compatible plug.


By the way, the 21W Narva resistors that are shown in the photo is what the previous owner installed in my camper trailer for me. Only one is actually required, although my guy also installed one in each indicator circuit.

Terrain Response - when you select rock crawl the vehicle will automatically raise to offroad height - with the trailer attached it wont do it automatically and will tell you if you want it to raise to do it manually (press the raise button).

Self levelling is a function of the vehicle regardless of trailer / load - it will level when its just you, your family, a load in the back, or a trailer load on the tow ball - its standard behaviour for the vehicle to level out.

Do you have front parking sensors? If you do there is a button on the dash to turn them all off. Just press after you select reverse until you can complete the wiring.

Hi Scott,

Tyre pressure at what Jaco recomends, except if going over corregated roads, then lower 5 or so PSI to make easier on van, also slow down on gravell etc.

As previously said a rear camera on the van.

Take your time, I often get destination focused and put the foot down when I could just enjoy the journey.

I have used Zip ties to hold external mirrors onto existing LR rear view mirror housings. Passing truck wind pressure has tried to remove them several times but they are still there.

Watch bridge height clearences, its easy to get caught, I have in Melbourne, it's a bugger to have to turn around but better than the alternative.

Make sure you have plenty of power outlets and some beside dining table for laptop charging etc, get some 12 volt chargers that have USB power output.

After 50 to 70 thousand kilometers towing etc, get a steel sump on the auto transmission and have the tranny oil changed.

Regards,

Ryall

For what its worth, I have a Jayco Expanda (and still very happy with it too).

1. It is an outback model, and even their hitches sit very low. Unlike most other caravan manufacturers, Jayco keeps their hitch points at the lower end of ADR requirements. I actually need to install a 50mm riser between the A frame and hitch to raise for both the D4 and the previous car.
As it is it sits perfectly flat with the standard D4 hitch, and if i installed a Mitch hitch it would be nose up.

2. The wiring on the van is whatever you ask to be provided. We ordered a 7 flat and Anderson and thats what we got, at no extra cost. 12 pin is the default if nothing else is asked for. (Once the D4 came along, I just rewired the 7 flat to a 7 round) For sake of battery and fridge in the van, the anderson is a no brainer to me.

Originally Posted by stray dingo

For what its worth, I have a Jayco Expanda (and still very happy with it too).

1. It is an outback model, and even their hitches sit very low. Unlike most other caravan manufacturers, Jayco keeps their hitch points at the lower end of ADR requirements. I actually need to install a 50mm riser between the A frame and hitch to raise for both the D4 and the previous car.
As it is it sits perfectly flat with the standard D4 hitch, and if i installed a Mitch hitch it would be nose up.

2. The wiring on the van is whatever you ask to be provided. We ordered a 7 flat and Anderson and thats what we got, at no extra cost. 12 pin is the default if nothing else is asked for. (Once the D4 came along, I just rewired the 7 flat to a 7 round) For sake of battery and fridge in the van, the anderson is a no brainer to me.

G'day Dingo!

Mate the reason I was looking at the 'new' Mitch Hitch was because I was of the belief that if I purchased an outback it would be too high for the Disco. Interesting to read you have found it not to be. I would prefer not having to go down the Mitch Hitch route if I can.

I will be purchasing second hand so the whole wiring plug is in the lap of the owner of my van (when I find one). I will have to get the Disco changed to whatever it has on it (or at least an adapter to get us home).

To give you some idea about heights, here is a pic of the D3 at off road height plus Llams at max height, the Disco has taller than standard 245/75/17 STT's tyres fitted. The D3 also has a Mitch Hitch and a D2 tongue with a Tregg coupling. At this height the van is sitting a bit lower at the rear than it should, but not much.

The van had the, then, optional Simplicity suspension fitted which gives an extra 50 mm of lift than a normal Outback vans suspension, plus about 1.5" taller A/T tyres fitted. At this height when off road the van goes most places you would not expect a similar sized van to be able to go.