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Thread: Anderson plug question

  1. #1
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    Anderson plug question

    Evening...

    Can I run an anderson plug straight from the main battery in the D4 via a 50A self resetting fuse to a multi-battery camper?

    How will the BMS in the D4 handle it?

    Cheers..

  2. #2
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    I wouldn't - far better off to put in a proper dual battery controller with matched wiring and fuses etc: Discovery 4 DBS Kits | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV

    Eg what happens if you happen to deeply discharge your camper batteries then connect up the Anderson plug and start the car?
    Cheers

    Simon
    2003 D2a TD5, ACE, SLS, Vienna Green.

  3. #3
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    Run an Isolator in between, That way it saves your battery.
    I run a Red Arc SBI12 On all Anderson Plug installs without a 2nd battery.

    Cheers

  4. #4
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    Hi catch-22, I have been getting so many requests for this type of set up in the D4 that I have reintroduced a voltage selectable version of my SC80.

    In installations like yours, where you are not fitting a second battery, the standard 12.0v cut-out voltage level of the SC80 is of no real advantage while not connected to the camper trailer or caravan.

    The SC80 with the selectable voltage, comes set with a 12.7v Cut-out voltage, so it operates like any other ordinary isolator.

    But if down the line, you decide to fit a second battery or you transfer the SC80 to another vehicle, with a second battery, there is a small shunt inside the SC80.

    You simply remove the shunt and the SC80 now operates with the 12.0v Cut-out setting, giving you all the unique advantages of the normal SC80 operation.

  5. #5
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    The camper sucks.. energy

    My MY14 D4 tows a camper with 210ah of batteries in it.
    Under the bonnet I have a 55ah Optima as an auxiliary with a Redarc SBI12 manager. Charge to the camper is direct from the auxiliary via an Anderson plug. Works a treat.. yet there is one issue that can cause me a problem, and the issue existed with the same set-up on a previous vehicle. The aux. and the camper batteries will equalize voltage when hitched up. If the 210 ah in the camper are very depleted then it can and does suck a lot of power out of the aux. I have had a situation several times when the fridge in the back of the vehicle has stopped when the aux. has run out of juice well before I expected.
    What I would like to do is put in a system that ensures priority charging for Main, aux. and camper in that order, but not charging the camper until the aux. is fully charged.
    14MYD4 HSE SDV6
    Active Rear Diff, Snorkel, Outback Wheel Carrier, Outback Fuel Tank, OL BullBar, LLAMS, Fyrlyt, Domin8r Winch, Drifta Drawers, MSA Drop-slide, Frontrunner rack, Cargo Barrier, Codan 9323 HF, Traxide.

    "The North Remembers"

  6. #6
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    You could install two 150A interVolt PSR (programmable (voltage) sensing relays) first one after the main and the second after the aux battery that you have to charge in sequence.

    The interVolt will allow you to set HV & LV cut offs to suit your/battery needs.

    Have no affiliation with interVolt, just a happy user.

    Hope this helps, if not someone smarter will chip in

    Cheers
    Peter
    Last edited by de7158; 19th March 2015 at 11:22 AM. Reason: Spelling

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by de7158 View Post
    You could install two 150A interVolt PSR (programmable (voltage) sensing relays) first one after the main and the second after the aux battery that you have to charge in sequence.

    The interVolt will allow you to set HV & LV cut offs to suit your/battery needs.

    Have no affiliation with interVolt, just a happy user.

    Hope this helps, if not someone smarter will chip in

    Cheers
    Peter




    Interesting.. I suppose if the REDARC is already doing that for the main (albeit non-programmable, aka maintains minimum voltage for cranking) then I would only need one for the aux.?
    14MYD4 HSE SDV6
    Active Rear Diff, Snorkel, Outback Wheel Carrier, Outback Fuel Tank, OL BullBar, LLAMS, Fyrlyt, Domin8r Winch, Drifta Drawers, MSA Drop-slide, Frontrunner rack, Cargo Barrier, Codan 9323 HF, Traxide.

    "The North Remembers"

  8. #8
    Tombie Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Boggs View Post
    Interesting.. I suppose if the REDARC is already doing that for the main (albeit non-programmable, aka maintains minimum voltage for cranking) then I would only need one for the aux.?
    Phone Tim.... Traxide.... I'd be amazed if you come away wanting...

  9. #9
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    Thanks Tombie.

    Hi Boggs and because of the size of your alternator, there is absolutely no need to have staged charging, as all the batteries will be charged at the same time.

    Furthermore, if you did add staged charging, you would very quickly find, if your auxiliary battery was flat, that your house batteries would not be charged properly unless you drove constantly for about 6+ hours.

    MY system not only allows the auxiliary battery's capacity to be used to assist the house batteries, which is how your system is working right now, but my system also allows 50% of the cranking battery's capacity to be used as well.

    Then, even if you have used heaps of battery capacity while camped, the D4 alternator will have no problem charging all the batteries at the same time.

    BTW, your isolator does not wait till your cranking battery is fully charged and then starts charging your auxiliary and house batteries.

    Even if your cranking battery was that flat that you just managed to start your motor, with in a minute or so of the motor starting, your isolator will already be turned on and charging your other batteries.

  10. #10
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    At this point I find myself wondering why we're not seeing a response or new thread to the effect of who the OP should be getting to handle his install of the traxide unit that hes paid drivesafe for based on his recommendation.

    and for the OP, Yes, the gear is that good that I'm perfectly contented to not have to recommend it my self because usually by the time I get to the posts its already done for me and further more Im willing to assume that if you've had it recommended to you and you haven't got one on the way to being installed that your procrastinating, died or don't recognize quality advice and equipment when its shown to you...

    which would be odd, you're driving a landrover.

    Traxide gear is one of those things that you just cant brag about it. I know I've tried, and failed, Multiple times. so instead of bragging heres some lines you can quote me on.

    Traxide gear is one of 2 things that If I can pre-empt and work out what your going to ask me about I'll recommend it before you even finish asking about it.

    Traxide quality is so good that if I'm working a DBS electrical fault and see the logo I skip checking the unit functionality and just head straight to critiquing the install.


    I've had more than one conversation that pretty much has gone along the lines of "Dave, remember when you recommended Traxide to me? well.." Told you so... and the beauty of it is that I can use that as a canned response because I have never had anyone complain about drivesafes gear so i know they're either calling to thank me for the recommendation OR they didnt listen and now have a problem they want me to help sort out. Which I invariably solve by telling them to call me back when they have a traxide unit.

    Traxide, its one of those things you can assume Im implying you should do or have done when i say its usually cheaper and easier to just do it properly the first time.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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