Andy, I bought one of those jacks from Kevin recently and lifted up the wheel with it underneath the suspension arm no problems. I have not yet tried it with a flat tyre but the height of the round jacking point is 140mm above ground level. I was on trip with Gordon German recently and the lads used the factory scissor jack to lift the car a bit and then a small trolley jack (a similar one to what I have) to go the rest of the way.
Rod
D4 MY16 5 seat TDV6 - LLAMS, Custom Drawers, OL Bar, Toyo Open Country, GOE Rims, Lithium DBS, eDiff, OA Long Range Tank, GAP Tool, Tracklander rack, Mitch Hitch, TPMS & Safari Snorkel
Note the maximum lift is 400mm for the trolley jack shown.
This is slightly less than the bottle jacks mentioned in this thread.
My summary:
All of these jacks will be capable to lift a wheel using the suspension arm but they will struggle when using the chassis rail, unless a jacking plate and/or wooden block is used as well.
The 2t jack from Blackwoods (Omega branded) can get a wheel off the ground from the chassis rail using just a steel plate under.
However, it is a close run thing, with the jack at its maximum extension and on a lean.
There has been mention of two other bottle jacks that have more extension in the various threads:
- Mercedes Sprinter
- D2
These can be a bit more difficult to source and I don't know how much extra extension is they have.
Cheers,
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
D2 jack isn't sufficient.
Sprinter jack is taller closed so a PITA when it's down.
I am now totally confused. Being new to the Discovery, all I want is a jack that works. It seems to me the OEM is not stable, so I do not want to use it as the 1st option but rather as a back up. I cannot understand why a bottle jack on the arm is unsafe or unstable, and it seems to me when looking there, that it is the logical place to put a jack which will quickly raise the wheel off the ground. As a back up I guess you could also attach the OEM for added security. If thats the case, then it would appear to me that we dont need jacks that have to raise in excess of 410mm or be lower than 185mm. Am I on the right track? If so then all I want to purchase is a jack that will fit under the arm with a flat tyre. How would one go about this and what jack would be suitable to do this sort of "operation"
2016.5 TDV6 Graphite D4,Corris Grey,APT sliders,Goe air comp plate,UHF & HF radio,Airflow snorkel,Discrete Winch,Compo rims with 265/65/18 Wildpeak AT3W, LLAMs,Traxide dual battery,EAS emergency kit,Mitch Hitch EGR blank & delete,ECU remap
Let's just say. With a flat tyre you have little to no chance of getting a jack under the arm once that corner hits the deck...
A small lift enerpac type ram would fit (hockey puck type) but then wouldn't give sufficient lift to get a fully inflated tyre on..
I had a look under the RRV last night, which would be similar to a D3/4. My D1 bottle jack would have worked under a suspension arm. If it's a bit tall I could probably dig a small hole for the jack in most situations or drive a step further up on a wood jacking plate. The front suspension arms have a high point and the jack has a wide u shaped top so shouldn't slip off the arm. The rear is not as ideal but ok for the jack I think.
I am in the process of getting a Sprinter jack which has a similar top. I will cut some channel to put on top so I can use it on the sill jacking point, which is different to a D3/4. The sprinter jack will give me the height needed for a sill jack.
L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
Track Trailer ARN 200-117
REMLR # 137
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