LR crank seal is $13 or so, cost me $18 delivered
The pump is the only part (except an oill filter at $22) that is worth buying from the Ford dealers, all the rest are cheaper at LR.
 Master
					
					
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						Master
					
					
						SubscriberLR crank seal is $13 or so, cost me $18 delivered
- Justin
Selling soon - MY10 D4 3.0 TDV6 SE with E-Diff & LLAMS, 265/65R18 Maxxis Razr A/T
Moved into MY12 L322 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography
VK2HFJ
The kits for the cam belt and HP belt come with all bits that are required. Includes tensioners and idlers.
However there is not a kit for the ancillary serpentine belt - when you replace this belt do you also need to replace the tensioners and iders (these are expensive) noting that you do not replace the bearings in the alternator, the water pump, A/c compressor and power steering pump.
Also I am happy to do the cam belts - seem straight forward but while the HP belt should be straight forward its location will make it difficult for my arthritic wrist and fingers. When changing the oil filter on the weekend I had a close look at this and there is no way I will be able to get my hands in the back of the engine. Why do designers do this - utter nonsense.
I will have the dayco kit, so what sort of labour costs is it going to cost me to get some young pimply apprentice mechanic to do it for me.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
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						Master
					
					
						SupporterWhen I replaced the RRS TDV6 2.7 timing belt/tensioners about 18 mo ago I sourced all the parts from the UK. The genuine upgraded oil pump came in at less than $150 and came with a rubber gasket (I did buy a gasket but it was only $15) I can see the pumps in the UK have increased in price. All up I spent about AUD600 for oil pump, gasket, Dayco timing and fuel belts and idlers, seal and aux serpintine belt.
I bought a new crank bolt in Aus for about $25 The bolt requires a huge torque and is all that keeps the pulley in position (no key or spline!) I was worried about the timing locking tool sheering off, but it held OK. The manual recommends another special tool to hold the flywheel
The crank seal is difficult to seat without buckling. It lands on radial lugs and if you push against the bridged part of the seal it will distort. I made an insertion tool to keep it even
Although I bought the fuel pump belt and tensioner , that job is still in the too hard basket. Ive read you need gynaecological skills to succeed. A fuel belt failure is not ideal but is non destructive unlike the a timing belt failure.
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						Master
					
					
						SupporterI've got a 2011 3.0l SDV6, my dealers (in Albany) told me that they take the body off for them and it is about a 12hr job, they estimate the cost to replace both belts and tensioners would be about $2500.
I thought this price to be quite reasonable, they had done one just a few weeks ago and I imagine when mine is due they will be well practiced in the body off procedure. I certainly didn't want to be their first body off!
There is no need for body off. I would be more concerned about the possibility for more things to be upset / damaged / etc by an unrequired body removal than I would be about doing the HP fuel pump belt in situ.
Everything at a price!
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						Master
					
					
						Subscriber- Justin
Selling soon - MY10 D4 3.0 TDV6 SE with E-Diff & LLAMS, 265/65R18 Maxxis Razr A/T
Moved into MY12 L322 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography
VK2HFJ
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