Thread: timing belt service - 3 questions???

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

I am down to....
4 hrs body off.
4 hrs body on.

*thats with using new plastic inner guard clips.
*A rear steel bumper takes longer.
*Spotties with no plugs that go through the grill takes longer.
*A CB radio cable that goes through the grill takes longer.
*A ARB bullbar doesnt take any longer as it doesnt get removed completely, only moved forward and supported.

I believe one of the boys at Rovertech is either slightly quicker than me or on par

Regards
Daz

Ha ha thats what sidecutters are for Daz....😛

Last one i did was 10 all up. You did well😊

Jc

Originally Posted by justinc

Ha ha thats what sidecutters are for Daz....��

Last one i did was 10 all up. You did well��

Jc

Yes but then you have to wire them back up with a plug, its just one of them little things that bite my arse when people dont do the job properly

10 hrs ya say?.....
If you are round my age, then well yeah fair enough time, it is colder over your way.

If you are close to half my age... well then, I've put the challenge out on the table....

Regards
Daz

P.S keep in mind the difference between 8 hrs and 10 hrs is actually nothing.... its 30 mins on each end of the job, or 15 mins more for each hr working.....

Received my Ford oil pump, Ford crank oil seal, Ford gasket and other Ford seal bits - well actually all except the oil pump are Landrover in Landrover packaging.

The oil pump is a Ford item with FordMoCo in the casting. When I ordered the parts I was told that the gasket did not come with the pump so ordered on - Ford price $73 (more than half the $135 cost of the pump) however it does so I took it back - hmm no on the spot refund - a cheque in the mail or an electronic transfer to your bank account but not via a linked debit card.

So does this look like the Landrover oil pump.





The FordMoCo marking.


Can someone confirm this has the extra webbing to stop the cracking as I am not sure what actually breaks.

Thanks

Garry

Originally Posted by garrycol

Can someone confirm this has the extra webbing to stop the cracking as I am not sure what actually breaks.

Thanks

Garry

Yep that looks to be the updated part. That machined face with the thread hole is where the tensioner bolts on. When it cracks that whole section tears aways from the housing. Theres a bit of extra webbing either side to help out

Thanks Shane - I have had a close look at the oil pump and all that section is outside the "oil sealed" section of the housing. The gasket in that section is does not seem to be keeping oil in so I assume that when it breaks it pulls the gasket out of the crucial areas particularly at that round inlet or outlet area near the top so letting the oil out.

Anyway - irrespective of that the new pump looks the goods.

Garry

Originally Posted by garrycol

I assume that when it breaks it pulls the gasket out of the crucial areas particularly at that round inlet or outlet area near the top so letting the oil out.



Garry

When it breaks the pistons hit the valves. Any oil leaks are irrelevant at that stage.

Oh ok - was looking at it differently (tunnel vision) - I thought that it was because of no oil pressure - makes sense.

Thanks - the learning never ends

Garry

Quick question for the 2010 tdv6 3.0, is the HPFP timed to the right exhaust cam and if so why? is it not a common rail where the whole fuel rail is at injector pressure?

Only asking as this is the next big job for my 180k km young D4.