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Thread: timing belt service - 3 questions???

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grentarc View Post
    There is no need, but it would make the job 100x easier!
    It would make the belt change part easier. But what about the work involved in the body removal?

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigJon View Post
    It would make the belt change part easier. But what about the work involved in the body removal?
    It is designed for that - and it would have been quicker to R&R the body of my D4 than what it took to do the HPFP belt with the body on.
    - Justin
    Selling soon - MY10 D4 3.0 TDV6 SE with E-Diff & LLAMS, 265/65R18 Maxxis Razr A/T
    Moved into MY12 L322 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography
    VK2HFJ

  3. #43
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    I know they are designed for it. What is the real time to R&R the body?

  4. #44
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    No need for body off for belts or HP pump

    I've had all front and rear timing belts and chains/tensioners/pulleys replaced twice on my high K D3 2.7, as well as a new HP pump fitted on other occasion.
    Nobody said anything about having to remove the body for any of it.
    If your fuel cooler on top of motor starts to leak, that may require a body off......but same workshop found a work-around for that task as well.
    Had it all done at Rover-Tech Perth.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigJon View Post
    I know they are designed for it. What is the real time to R&R the body?
    Alot less time than 17 hours
    - Justin
    Selling soon - MY10 D4 3.0 TDV6 SE with E-Diff & LLAMS, 265/65R18 Maxxis Razr A/T
    Moved into MY12 L322 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography
    VK2HFJ

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by vbrab View Post
    I've had all front and rear timing belts and chains/tensioners/pulleys replaced twice on my high K D3 2.7, as well as a new HP pump fitted on other occasion.
    Nobody said anything about having to remove the body for any of it.
    If your fuel cooler on top of motor starts to leak, that may require a body off......but same workshop found a work-around for that task as well.
    Had it all done at Rover-Tech Perth.
    There is a more room on the 2.7 compared to the 3.0 to access the HPFP belt. The 2.7 also does not require the HPFP to be locked with a special tool as it is not timed like the 3.0
    - Justin
    Selling soon - MY10 D4 3.0 TDV6 SE with E-Diff & LLAMS, 265/65R18 Maxxis Razr A/T
    Moved into MY12 L322 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography
    VK2HFJ

  7. #47
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    I am down to....
    4 hrs body off.
    4 hrs body on.

    *thats with using new plastic inner guard clips.
    *A rear steel bumper takes longer.
    *Spotties with no plugs that go through the grill takes longer.
    *A CB radio cable that goes through the grill takes longer.
    *A ARB bullbar doesnt take any longer as it doesnt get removed completely, only moved forward and supported.

    I believe one of the boys at Rovertech is either slightly quicker than me or on par

    Regards
    Daz
    Regards
    Daz


  8. #48
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    Body off time, would like to know R&R time

    There seems to be a bit of a range in quoted times for body R&R.
    No idea of "book" time.
    As I am looking to have that done as part of engine change on a D3, would like to know what the recommended time is for R&R.
    Some online videos suggest they can get it off in 3 hours, but I expect getting it on (and making sure all connections "connected"), might take a bit longer.
    This great link (below) has been posted by jonesy63 in 2015 DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - How To - Body Removal
    But no real firm times for getting a R&R job.
    I figure that 8 hours to R&R might be a good ballpark figure and longer with bull bars no doubt.

  9. #49
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    I am pretty sure I can do the fuel pump belt in less than 8 hours.

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigJon View Post
    I am pretty sure I can do the fuel pump belt in less than 8 hours.
    Is that a 2.7 or a 3.0?
    - Justin
    Selling soon - MY10 D4 3.0 TDV6 SE with E-Diff & LLAMS, 265/65R18 Maxxis Razr A/T
    Moved into MY12 L322 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography
    VK2HFJ

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