Thread: GOE 18" Wheels, corrosion and ????

It can happen to any Alloy wheel.Alloy does not like being in contact with steel,it causes electrolysis = corrosion.
It pays to use an anti seize on the spigot and wheelnuts.It has to be compatible with aluminium.NEVER use coppercoate,it really sets off a problem with steel/aluminium.
Andrew

Originally Posted by LandyAndy

It can happen to any Alloy wheel.Alloy does not like being in contact with steel,it causes electrolysis = corrosion.

It is perfectly happy until moisture enters the scene. A smear of grease would be fine also?

Yeah, I guess given the intended use of the vehicle a corrosion resistant coating would be a reasonable expectation on those components. I just wanted to raise awareness due to the fact that the wheels are difficult to remove once the corrosion has established and in my case it had not been that long since they were changed.

A few weeks ago a lady got a flat tyre on a road I was grading,she had a Ford Festiva that was 18 months old.I changed the wheel for her,I couldn't budge the flat tyre.Ended up using the pipe and lever I use to undo the grader wheel nuts as a jemmy bar.I could see the rim flexing before it "poped" off.

Yes grease is better than nothing.
Andrew

Many years ago I had to get under the front and rear of my D2 to kick the alloy wheels off so have applied a smear of grease ever since.

Mate of mine had the same issue with his BMW on more than one occasion.

High temp grease sorted out the issue once and for all.

Use C5A nickel anti seize sparingly

Originally Posted by PeterJ

Hi all, the touring around is on hold for the time being so it was into the shed to swap the GOE 18"s out for the standard 20". Usually a fairly quick and easy job, except this time after taking off the wheel nuts there was no way I could get the wheel off the hub with normal (and a bit of abnormal) effort. After amusing myself with a short pinch bar, blocks of wood, raw hide hammer and multiple counting of wheel nuts to make sure it had not grown an extra one I decided to fab up a puller (pusher) that went behind the spokes and pushed via a 10x1.5mm thread against the disc hub.

This worked fine, and the cause of the problem can be seen in the photos attached below.(can not remember how to put them in the post, been a big day and can not be bothered working it out again)

The wheels had only been on since May and I thought it might be worth a word of warning to check because this would be an utter out and about let alone up bush.

Anyway, cleaned with cone type rotary wire brush and painted with fireproof paint on the inside of the bore where the axle nut is and coated the outside of the spigot with "never seez" when I put the 20"s back on.

I have not measured the bore on the GOE 18s but they seem to be quite a neat fit and so for others who use them it might be a prudent check.

Peter

Not sure that I'd be adding paint to the mix. In what is already a reasonably close (if not "tight") tolerance, a layer of paint is likely to add to the problem.

I clean all contact areas on mine (both on the wheels and the hubs) with a wire brush and if necessary, fine emery paper. Then apply a very light smear of high temp chain lubricating oil to all contacting surfaces, then wipe off any excess oil before fitting wheel back on to vehicle. Probably any good quality oil (or grease) will achieve the same result - I tend to use either motorcycle or chainsaw chain oil of good quality - there's always some in the shed. This has always worked well for me.