Reply With QuoteMine 230k km. It didn't even have a hole left it was so clogged up. No perceived improvement afterwards. I guess the gunk was still flexible and thus the manifold pressure was still able to act on it.
Wizard
SubscriberHaving read a few posts on the Disco3.uk site about cleaning the MAP sensor, I thought I'd have a look at mine.
Bit of background - 2010 D4, with the 3.0 TDV6 (later marketed as SDV6), 115,000km, but the first 110k were without the turbo drain fix, meaning it was laying down a pretty serious smoke screen every time i put my foot down! I can only assume that was also going through the engine by way of the EGR valve...
Anyway, the MAPT sensor is right on top of the engine - need to take off the engine cover first though. Very easy to access! Picture stolen:
map10.jpg
This is what mine looked like:
Veebs-MAP.jpg
Nowhere near as bad as some of the D3 site pictures, but still worth cleaning. Liberal doses of MAF cleaner got it looking sparkling. A warning read on the D3 site about not sticking anything down the hole was well headed - the cleaner got it out anyway (it was pretty full).
Whilst I was under the bonnet, (and starting to feel more and more like a real Land Rover owner as a result), I also tacked the two MAF sensors - also very easy job. Undo the hose clamp, undo two 8mm bolts per sensor housing, and they both come off the air filter box with a bit of a pull (the o ring seal is quite tight). More doses of the MAF cleaner and it's sparkling.
The result? A noticeably 'smoother' power curve, achieved either in reality or as a placebo result. The car doesn't seem to labour as much in higher gear, shifting down more readily. I used to have a pausing sensation between 1st and 2nd -
now gone. Fuel economy, as reported by the trip computer also improved by around 0.5l per 100km.
Total time = 30min (probably less if you know which end of a screwdriver to use)
Total cost = 1 can of CRC MAF cleaner (~$25)
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE remapped to RRS output, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Dual Battery, Apple CarPlay, OEM Retrofitted: Cornering lights, Door card lights, Power + Heated Seats, Logic 7 audio
TopicToaster
SubscriberMine 230k km. It didn't even have a hole left it was so clogged up. No perceived improvement afterwards. I guess the gunk was still flexible and thus the manifold pressure was still able to act on it.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
Super Moderator
SubscriberFor comparison, here's mine done recently. MY14 TDV6 with approx 65,000km and almost 3 years.
Sorry about the photo quality, especially the "before" image on left.
It was slightly worse with some wiped off onto rag before photo taken.
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
Super Moderator
SubscriberI looked at these from the air box and they seemed totally clean.Originally Posted by veebs
I assumed oil/soot wouldn't get that close to the air box?
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
Wizard
SubscriberYeah, mine had some very fine dust on what I assume are the temperature sensors - doubt it really affected performance though. Still, I figured I had come that far, so just hit them with the spray anyway.
I'm interested to know what the rest of the throttle body housing thing must look like inside - building up to the confidence needed to pull it off and hose it out too. Probably for negligible performance improvement, but positive peace of mind!
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE remapped to RRS output, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Dual Battery, Apple CarPlay, OEM Retrofitted: Cornering lights, Door card lights, Power + Heated Seats, Logic 7 audio
Super Moderator
SubscriberGood man, make sure you post some details and tips of how to do it. I am a bit scared to go there.
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
TopicToaster
Subscriber
Something like this I expect
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
Wizard
SubscriberSweet jebus - after how many k's was that?
Was it a big job to remove?
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE remapped to RRS output, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Dual Battery, Apple CarPlay, OEM Retrofitted: Cornering lights, Door card lights, Power + Heated Seats, Logic 7 audio
TopicToaster
Subscriber230k km. And no, very easy, though it does have to be removed in a certain way so as not to damage it (like what happened to mine I suspect after an intake manifold change)
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
I clean the Y piece every 20,000ks . There are orings on the inlet manifold end which can be damaged. It's not a hard job but it's a bloody dirty job that gunk gets on everything .
im not sure how much difference it makes , but it certainly can't do it any harm by being clean.
cheers Ean
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