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Thread: Clunk in front suspension

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjc_td5 View Post
    6) It is not necessary to disturb the half shaft. The outer joint can be separated with the CV in place. If you are going to release it, you will need a big socket. I didn't measure the size but it was certainly bigger than anything in my collection.
    It's 32mm I think the hub nut. Should not be reused I believe. It must be a common size as 32m sockets are easy to find in tool shops.

    Did you just use the sliding movement in the outer CV or actually open the boot and split it thereby needing a new clamp for the boot?

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    It's 32mm I think the hub nut. Should not be reused I believe. It must be a common size as 32m sockets are easy to find in tool shops.

    Did you just use the sliding movement in the outer CV or actually open the boot and split it thereby needing a new clamp for the boot?
    I found that if I let the inboard arm ends drop to the ground, with a bit of wriggling, I could get the swivel end ball joint clear of the swivel hub without damaging the CV boot. You lay the ball joint over at an angle as it comes out of the hole to let the arm clear the CV boot.

  3. #33
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    Clunk in front suspension

    I never understood the reason for releasing the hub nut and pushing the shaft back. Is it all about clearance for the LCA?

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    I never understood the reason for releasing the hub nut and pushing the shaft back. Is it all about clearance for the LCA?
    Makes it much easier to remove the lower ball joint out of the bearing housing arm thingy. No clearance on the outer CV joint.
    Regards, Will

    Stornoway Grey '09 D3 TDV6 SE, 2015 TERRITORY Engine at 348k
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  5. #35
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    And was the rear bolt difficult to remove?

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    And was the rear bolt difficult to remove?
    The rear bolt on the LHS is only difficult to remove as the Cat sits right behind the nut so a deep socket will not fit. I would usually use my breaker bar to crack the nut loose, but a 24mm ring spanner was all I had that would fit it. Due to the length of the large spanner and the low height I had the vehicle on stands, it would not swing through any reasonable swing without hitting the ground. It was also difficult to get anywhere near the correct torque when tightening, but I was not too concerned about this as I knew the bolt would be disturbed again during the wheel alignment the next day. Setting the vehicle much higher on the stands would have alleviated most of these issues.

  7. #37
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    But the bolt was not seized frozen in the bush?

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    But the bolt was not seized frozen in the bush?
    No mate. Other than the swivel tapers being hard to split, all other bolts were easy to tap out. I had heard that seized bolts could be an issue but I had no issues.

  9. #39
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    Well after waiting a month for the dealer to get hold of the tool to remove and re-insert the bushes - I am going to get the whole lower control arms replaced.
    The dealer ordered the tool from another dealer, but when it arrived a part was missing. They then ordered it from J-LR in Sydney - but after another week waiting - they couldn't find it. So in the end the service manager said - stuff it - give him a whole new assembly under warranty!

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