It would be good to see what the instantaneous readout would have been at that speed on the flat.
Talking about towing,mine does 15 to 16l/100 pulling 2.8T with vehicle loaded,on a run.
And about 18l/100 towing the same van, with a strong headwind,which is the worse i have ever seen, on a long run.
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
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						SupporterYep, that's with gpsodometer and the servo docket,(the car is actually showing 11.6 atm), our odometer is reading 3.5% slow however it's just occurred to me that my wife usually fuels the car and I probably brim it, she doesn't..... I'll do it again later this week,
So would a general figure of about 2L/100km be around the mark for a roof rack with a couple swags?
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						SupporterI've wanted to recalibrate our Speedo and odometer,I can't find a way to do this on a 3 with a nanocom editing the ccf, is it possible?
I also believe and have had it verified that an sdv6 with 8 speed is a MUCH more economical and powerful thing, especially with a remap, are others seeing this, particularly those that have gone from 3 to 4 ?
Your odometer factory should have been almost spit on perfect.. every one I’ve ever checked is, which makes you now out by 4.7% no 3.5. Don’t trust a GPS EVER... for distance.. and for speed it’s only valid in a very straight line!
Yes, I’d believe 2 swags and a rack could easily eat the fuel....
Tyre pressures and type also impact, as does gear choice. I can reduce consumption by taking control from the vehicle with regard to gears. I use cruise significantly except in tight winding roads.
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						SupporterSo without gps, how do you check an odometer?
Because of our conditions, our tyre choice probably can't change,
What difference did the exhaust make? Ours is stock, but I believe has a bas remap but I cannot be sure, is there anyway I can verify who did it?
Also on the gearing, do you think the auto changes too early, too late or too often?
Cheers James
You can use the GPS to check speed. But need a long straight road, corners can fault the data.
The auto is pretty good, in sport more than enough but it works hard once it finds a hill. Preemptive changes help Keep it on the torque band.
Hi James,
We've an MY12 TDV6 2.7 with:
- ARB bar (no winch),
- Long Ranger Fuel Tank,
- Kaymar Rear Wheel carrier (single wheel),
- Rhino Tradesman roof rack,
- Camping Drawers and Engel 40 litre fridge/tools etc.
- and mostly 2 people,
so we may be running a little heavier than you have described for your Disco.
- Long bitumen road trips where we're travelling 'light' often with the roof rack off, can see the fuel consumption drop into the high 9's low 10 l/100km,
- On long trips over varying road surfaces, travelling with just a tent and camping gear in the car, but with roof rack sometimes carrying a spare tyre, we'll average in the mid 10 l/100km (approx 100kph).
- On remote area trips with two of us, towing a camper trailer (approx 1.2t), with a second spare tyre on the roof rack plus a pair of maxitrax, that figure increases to the mid 14's (we tend to sit on approx 95kph and reduce that on the dirt).
- Averaged over the last 60,000km of ownership (across all driving types) we've average 12.7 l/100km. All these figures are based on actual fuel put into the tank, but with mileage taken from the speedo, which I believe is out by the 'regulation 4%'.
More than the trailer I think the biggest impact on the fuel usage is weight, what you're carrying on the roof rack, and then speed (within reason). The reduced aerodynamics (can you change the aerodynamics of a brick ???) of adding the roof rack and associated gear on top adds significantly to the increased fuel usage.
Hope this helps your planning.
Craig
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