Lets try this....
IF you have the vehicle at GVW and then you want to hook up your nose heavy trailer, THEN you have to reduce the GVW by the amount of the towball.
IF you have the vehicle loaded to max NET Payload it should be (for base spec) 150KG under the GVM (another 75 kg lighter if you're not in the vehicle)
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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You only get one shot at life, Aim well
2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
4.6m Quintrex boat
20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone
I had a brand new Tojo 76 wagon with auto, so higher gearing than the manual, and towing my 2.5t caravan I could NEVER get less than 18lph unless I was prepared to sit on 80kph. It was not economical at all AND more expensive to service than my D4 hence I gave it to my son!.
2016.5 TDV6 Graphite D4,Corris Grey,APT sliders,Goe air comp plate,UHF & HF radio,Airflow snorkel,Discrete Winch,Compo rims with 265/65/18 Wildpeak AT3W, LLAMs,Traxide dual battery,EAS emergency kit,Mitch Hitch EGR blank & delete,ECU remap
An auto will always use more fuel than a manual box and I did say driven wisely will get you 15l/100klm, I sit on 85kph-90kph on a long trip which saves a Lot of fuel and is much safer than travelling at 100kph.
Travelling slower is also easier on the vehicles and trailers so less damage, /wear and tear, and tyre damage occurs on a long or remote trip which not only saves you money it also helps to prevent breakdowns in the middle of nowhere.
You only get one shot at life, Aim well
2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
4.6m Quintrex boat
20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone
Bugger , i shot into town to get some popcorn for the next episode and all is quite.
I looked up my Defender 110's handbook on towing to see if the same method was used as for a D4.
It says if the vehicle is loaded to maximum Gross Vehicle Weight the nose weight is limited to 150kg.
"If it is necessary to increase the nose weight, up to a maximum of 250kg (550 lbs) the vehicle load should be reduced accordingly. This ensures that the GVW and maximum rear axle load are not exceeded."
So if the towball was on 250kg the GVW would have to be reduced by 100kg.
GVWs for Defenders vary depending on the model and if the vehicle is standard or heavy duty. Max GVW for a HD is 3500kg and max rear axle weight is 2200kg.
So I think that's similar to the method for a D4, but no mention of a 75kg driver or fuel.
Page 75 of the Defender manual. Is the D4 manual similar?![]()
I know this is a LR site but the 76 with manual transmission revs its guts out in top gear. With an auto (from a LC 200) the gearing drops quite considerably (about 900rpm I think at 100kph)) and the torque converter could be locked up or unlocked manually, so there was little to no loss of power. Also the lower revs would probably equate to a manual driving at 80kph. Besides the comfort factor of the D4, the extra fuel used by the LC was also a serious consideration in deciding not to use it as our touring the outback tug. I would rather drive at closer to the legal speed limits on the highways and not cause traffic jams behind me because of the snails pace of some on the road.
2016.5 TDV6 Graphite D4,Corris Grey,APT sliders,Goe air comp plate,UHF & HF radio,Airflow snorkel,Discrete Winch,Compo rims with 265/65/18 Wildpeak AT3W, LLAMs,Traxide dual battery,EAS emergency kit,Mitch Hitch EGR blank & delete,ECU remap
GVM..GVW is your max weight regardless of how you interpret the manual.
I don’t believe you can just tag 150kg into your GVM, think owners convince themself this is the case to come under.
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