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Thread: D4 Purchase

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by John_D2 View Post
    All fair points. Power and torque figures seem relatively similarish comparing.

    No trans/flexplates/torque converter issues long term from towing if serviced well?

    We’re the sort of people to spend money on maintaining and preventing and keeping the car for >10 years
    Tell the seller you are are doing him a great favour by taking his technology deprived car of his hands.

    Yes all DIY is possible via workshop manual / this site / YouTube

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by John_D2 View Post
    I’m so far a D2 guy who does his own trans servicing. Can I do my own d4 trans/diffs, etc? Otherwise about how much am I looking at from a shop?
    About $1,000 including change to steel pan. Covered in volumes on this forum - see the stickies for starters

  3. #13
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    All fair points, $8k-$10k can be easily put towards preventive maintaining
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    There is no doubt that both the 2.7 and 3.0 both can both randomly self destruct but at least you can replace the 2.7 with a Ford Territory engine at better price. Seems like no ones heard of Territory 2.7s destructing so maybe at 2010 you are in that club.
    I'm not aware of a D4 with 2.7 TDV6 with spun bearing issues either, only early D3 TDV6 having these issues. I thought Ford introduced the 2.7 in the Territory after the upgraded bearings in the D3 were introduced in 2008.

    Ron
    2016 D4 TDV6 Corris Grey
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    2018 D5 TD6 SE Silicon Silver - gone
    2011 D4 TDV6 2.7 Indus Silver - gone
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  5. #15
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    Hi John, just been through exactly the same exercise, and fully support all points here.

    There is no comparison - its just like changing from a truck to a car for comfort, but definitely feels bigger, heavier and dare I say it, more solid. Having said that, you loose some "you control" features to "automation" for off roading, and I think I'll be getting vinyl wrap rather than suffer pin striping for off roading.

    Because I tow a 3T+ van (also known as The Brick) I have just swapped my much enhanced and dearly loved 04 D2a TD5 auto and went for a poverty pack MY10 2.7 (which also means a 6 in lieu of 8 speed) on the basis of accepting poorer fuel economy, but hopefully minimising potential costs for spun bearings, 2nd turbo issues etc, plus if the worst did happen a territory engine swap-over can be had for $10K.
    I paid $27K for mine with 220K km but with rebuilt suspension, auto metal pan done and some good extras like a bar and winch, roof-rack and long range tank. The later D4s also have bigger brakes to go with the 19 inch rims, but I'm happy with the smaller brakes and 18 inch rims.

    Not too fussed on the drivers seat adjustment range (TD5 preferred) but D4 HSE/electric versions are apparently better.

    I too buy cars for the long haul, look after them and if anything over-maintain - this one will probably see me out.
    Cheers Gavin
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  6. #16
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    2.7 with EGR delete & remap....(?)

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by gofish View Post
    2.7 with EGR delete & remap....(?)
    I've just had a mild remap done via DazzaTD5 on here (Perth) so contact him for any details - only picked up the car today and driven home (15 km) since, but about 20% improvement in torque from 430 Nm to 507 and at lower revs (2800 to 2400) from the dyno results. I drive like a Nanna, so haven't had the opportunity to test it in any meaningful way yet, like towing my brick.

    Car had already had the EGR delete remap done when I bought it - Darren proved it by disconnecting the EGR wiring and it made no difference.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    I've just had a mild remap done via DazzaTD5 on here (Perth) so contact him for any details - only picked up the car today and driven home (15 km) since, but about 20% improvement in torque from 430 Nm to 507 and at lower revs (2800 to 2400) from the dyno results. I drive like a Nanna, so haven't had the opportunity to test it in any meaningful way yet, like towing my brick.

    Car had already had the EGR delete remap done when I bought it - Darren proved it by disconnecting the EGR wiring and it made no difference.
    Nice. Is it the same deal as the D2? Just remap the ECU, plug it in with a nanocom and it’s good to go?
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by John_D2 View Post
    Nice. Is it the same deal as the D2? Just remap the ECU, plug it in with a nanocom and it’s good to go?
    Will have to wait until Darren responds re process, even though he has Nanocom, GAP etc.
    It was done by United Fuel - they have a couple of guys there who are adding LRs to their lists of can do. They actually do pre and post dyno tests, and the young fella is happy to do some radical changes (not for me). I suspect a little more complicated and definitely more expensive - prices probably line up with the BAS versions at a guess.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by John_D2 View Post
    Hi. We’re looking at upgrading to a D4. We’re looking for a TDV6 and have found a local 2010 2.7 6 speed with 78000km at a good price, plus the colour matches our camper trailer!

    Now I don’t know a huge amount about the D4, but is there any advantage on spending $8k-$10k more to get a 3.0 8 speed? Looking at a long term purchase.

    We’d be getting a LR shop to check it over prior to purchase. What models should we avoid, plus what are some common problems?

    Thanks in advanced.
    Hi John,

    Having recently moved from a 2.7 TDV6 (2005) into a 3.0 SDV6 with the 8 speed, they really are chalk and cheese. I loved my D3 but the new car is a whole different experience. All the previous advice about maintenance and pros and cons ETC of each are correct. It really comes down to what your key motivators are. The 3.0 ltr with the 8 speed will give you an amazing driving experience with all the power and torque and 8 speed is great. It will tow you camper significantly better than the 2.7 which depending on how you like to tow will made a difference. If you like to get moving and pass slow cars the 3.0 is the go. If you're happy to cruise at the traffic speed then the 2.7 is fine. NB: It's not that the 2.7 is slow and you can certainly pass cars, but you can't just pull out, floor it and zip past.

    Obviously, these are you decisions to make. However, I'd spend the extra on the 3.0, 8 speed. Which of course I'd say, because I just did .
    Gone 05 D3 ARB Front Kaymar Rear Winch E-Diff LRA Tank Dual Battery

    Current 2015 SDV6 SE. Tow Pro Mitch Hitch Llams C/motives 70ltr w/tank 2 x comp Traxide BMS-2 x Aux 150w Solar Uniden Engel ARB drawer F/Runner rack Light bar

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