Thread: Anyone know the CAN Hi and CAN Lo OBD port pin numbers and wire colours please

Jaycar for heat-shrink.

Originally Posted by Mog60

Thanks for that useful information Graeme. You mention a few things that I hadn't heard of before such as the dual wall heat shrink and liquid heat-shrink. I will see if I can get these items from a retailer like supercheap or similar. I have a little portasol gas soldering iron which I guess I can use to melt the insulation. I will practice on some wires tomorrow to see if I am capable of doing this on the car for real.

Thanks. Peter

Peter you could also use silicon self moudling tape, which I have used before such as Tommy Tape from Bunnings or this Calibre tape from SuperCheap
Calibre Tape-It Self-Fusing Silicone Tape - Black, 3m x 25mm | Supercheap Auto

HTH
John

This does the job nicely.

New can arrived yesterday.

Originally Posted by Graeme

To splice onto a wire I melt the insulation for 6-10mm, tin with solder then solder the extra wire to the tinned section.

I use a knife to completely remove a section of insulation. Mainly because as the PVC burns it releases HCl which attacks the tip, and also the chloride can get into the copper producing copper chloride and that provides a continuous corrosion source. Also, it allows the wire being spliced to get a firm mechanical wrap around the source wire. It's one of those .05% things though as you always get some insulation degradation around the solder joint anyway.

And yeah, the Jaycar glue lined hateatshrink is pretty good. Just don't leave it sitting in the car in summer on the seat in the sun before you use it.

Yes, using a knife makes for a neater job and avoids melted insulation getting caught between the wires that can prevent a good solder joint.

It is imperative that the wires are supported well past the end of the solder to prevent wire breakage at the end of the stiff solder, noting that solder can run inside the insulation some distance.

Originally Posted by Graeme

It is imperative that the wires are supported well past the end of the solder to prevent wire breakage at the end of the stiff solder, noting that solder can run inside the insulation some distance.

I don't think this element gets emphasized nearly enough where solder is used. In descending order of applicability to automotive applications where reliability is important :

Properly made crimps -> Solder with extra mechanical support / relief -> Stripped, twisted and taped -> Poorly made crimps -> Stripped, twisted and insulated with elastoplast -> solder with no support -> scotchloks.

Guess which one I see the most often?

Hmmm. Lots of thoughts. I cut the wire, strip back, solder in the new spur 2:1 eg 2 wires twisted together twisted with the single, while using glue impregnated heat shrink to avoid corrosion. I’m not afraid to chop a cable. I have been known to run an additional non glued heat shrink over the lot that’s longer to provide additional mechanical strength.