SDV6 / 3.0TDV6 Engine Number Location?

I had similar issue, I told mechanic there is no visible proof that engine had ever been removed, therefore no reason to investigate further, he called RTA (nsw) they told him if it was in his opinion of a mechanic that the engine had never been removed and that the engine number shown on valve cover matched paperwork then it was ok to pass the identification process. Any mechanic or man with two hands can spot an engine that has been replaced at some stage, maybe call an Indy that's local who can do the job or call the authority yourself.

I'm in Adelaide and took my v6 petrol to Lonsdale. After an hour tryingvro find it, i had to take it to sovereign and get them to photo it. My wife had a similar problem with her Volvo c70. Must be an SA thing.

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Originally Posted by Tombie

Never seen one successfully removed without evidence of tampering.

Best to order new ones from dealer.

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Takes 5 minutes with a right angled O ring pick, easy and would save potential stress down the trackAttachment 153847Attachment 153848Attachment 153849

Got this all sorted through PCB Landrovers. They dropped the starter off to get to the engine number, take photos and clean it up.

I spoke to a different guy at the inspection place when I went back. They definitely don't accept the top plate as evidence. He said they had a car with a stolen engine and top plates changed, found after it had been through inspection and now they only accept the block number.

Ah well all done and wasn't too expensive. Gave me an excuse to have all the gearbox, diff and transfer case fluids changed at the same time and PCB gave it a general look over and found a few other bits to be fixed next time it's in. So a worthwhile exercise in the end.

Well that is about the only place in the world that happens.

Can you imagine what it would be like in NSW where you have rego inspections every year. Each year the starter would have to be dropped out just to get your roadworthy.

Maybe some people in SA need to get with the programme.

Now I understand why my 3.5 V8 in my 101 has a one off engine number stamped in the top passenger side of the block near the bell housing - with the 101 exhaust manifolds on it the engine number cannot be read so, now that I understand the SA process, it explains the second "SA police type" engine number stamped near the bell housing.

This number is nothing like the correct number, but is easy to read and saves having to pull the exhaust manifold off to read the number.

Garry

It would just be Regency Park on another power trip.

The irony is that the mechanic could just send any old photo he had, no guarantee it’s of that vehicle!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tombie

It would just be Regency Park on another power trip.

The irony is that the mechanic could just send any old photo he had, no guarantee it’s of that vehicle!

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Mine was at Lonsdale - but the same power trip applies!

I remember when I had my Wrangler done (at Lonsdale also), the guy could not find an engine number anywhere (I purchased it in Melbourne).
In the end, he found a casting number somewhere near where the engine number was supposed to be, and went with that.
The engine number was forever different on the rego paperwork to the Jeep data.
Sigh!

It's a bit frustrating but it's not really the end of the world. In SA you only need an identity inspection when buying a car from interstate. If you transfer the vehicle in the same name, not needed. If you buy a car in SA, not needed. The inspection is a no booking needed free inspection.

No annual pink slips. No roadworthy certificates. It's typically a painless process.

Definitely not the end of the world here [emoji41]

Pull up, Police office has a quick look, show him the number on the intake. Pay the fee and gone.

No naffing around [emoji6] and no comments about the depth of tint [emoji2937]

Hi Guys
Thanks for the info in this thread.
I just had the same thing happen at Regency Pk for my NSW bought HSE.
I came home ****ed off but searched on the net and was looking at removing the starter motor etc at home. Looking around and under the car I discovered taking the drivers wheel off and removing a heat shield and bending another (it bent back) I could see the section that needed cleaning albeit 2-300 mm in from guard.
So out with the degreaser and fabbed up an old broom stick with a rag taped to the end, I was successful after 4 or 5 goes to rub the crud off and see the numbers, win winhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/icons/icon7.png . I would soak with degreaser then rub with the broom and wash off with high pressure garden hose.
I think I was lucky that it didn't have much crud over it.
The Regency Pk guy said he has heard it costing between 2 and 700 bucks for a mechanic to do it.
The degreaser Ii used is from Bunnings called oomph its a green gel type spray, the guys on the Patrol forums use it for cleaning carbon from inlet manifolds once removed.