Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

Originally Posted by Spence

You use a gauge, but it shows the psi in real time, as it deflates. I have tried the staun deflators, but I found they weren’t always accurate.

Cools......my stauns are within 1psi of each other on my TPMS.

Kinda need the stauns to be accurate as My TPMS auto resets the new pressure as soon as your score the sensor on and doesn’t like an imbalance of pressure especially cross axle as it’s set to 10%

Originally Posted by W&KO

Cools......my stauns are within 1psi of each other on my TPMS.

Kinda need the stauns to be accurate as My TPMS auto resets the new pressure as soon as your score the sensor on and doesn’t like an imbalance of pressure especially cross axle as it’s set to 10%

That’s quite accurate. Mine could be 4psi out.

Originally Posted by Spence

Attachment 167568Attachment 167569Attachment 167570

just fitted these little suckers. From 35psi to 18psi in 5 seconds “Apex precision valve”
The only thing I dislike about four wheel driving is airing down using one of those bloody valve removal jobbies... problem solved.

What rims? Was it the standard or XL version?

Originally Posted by Spence

That’s quite accurate. Mine could be 4psi out.

Should clarify....each one seems to be consistent

When I pull up with hot tyres they consistently lower to the following

21
20
20
19

I should adjust the one that hovers around 19 as if I manage to end up with the 19 and 21 on the same axle TPMS doesn’t like it, I just manually take a bit of air out of the 21.

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

What rims? Was it the standard or XL version?

The XL is just for a deeper valve recess. My rims are 18” Moab’s.

Suspension Fault with amber light came on this week. I mentally prepared myself to be up for a new compressor / do a rebuild, all to the mockery of the wife (Prado driver)
Took the cover off and it was caked in mud from the last two trips in the past fortnight.
Poor thing must have been overheating! Will now add to post mud wash down.

Finally completed the airstrut replacement, brake line changeout and caliper overhaul.


Front drivers side lower piston was stuck/very stiff in it's bore. Had to hydraulically press it out holding the top one in place.

Passenger front a little better but some crud behind the piston, fluid was brownish. Rear ones were ok, fluid dirty though. Put in new piston seals, dust seals and caliper slide pin seals all round. Changed out all rubber brake lines.

Not the easiest job, very messy with brake fluid everywhere.

Car has done 206000km on original struts, brake lines and caliper piston seals.20210117_103831.jpg

Interesting you did it on the car even though you were changing the lines and could have removed them and done the work on the bench?