Ha, thanks, we all obly ever remember the last thing we read. If id started with "my ac compressor is buggered, but...." id get a different response. Might get stidied up on replacing, or get my indie to do it. Will live with it fir a bit....
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Went for a drive today , 100 mtrs from just leaving home "boong" suspension fault , no special programs etc, plug in hawkeye and fault code U0416 , something about invalid data from vehicle dynamics.. Anyway continued on and basically spent most of the day with vehicle lowered as the fault would return instantly when cleared and if i stopped and locked /unlocked the car the suspension just never raised.
Now i had this issue about 5 yrs ago and after much trouble shooting it turned out to be a faulty new battery , i replaced my battery 6 months ago so thought surely not twice, so removed the battery and put on charger , disconnected the traxide system , checked all the earths near the battery, had a quick look at the connections behind the battery but all seemed ok.
tonight put the battery back in , start up and not even out the driveway and "Boong" same bloody thing... bastard i was watching the battery meter and it never dropped under 13.8V. pull forward , put my foot on the brake and noticed no brake lights...mmmm , pump the peddle and brake lights work... try a few more times and then they stopped working again...mmmm
fitted spare brake light switch , clear faults and go for a 15 min spin and no faults...
So what runs thru the brake light switch that would affect the vehicle dynamics signal...
Off to ford tomorrow to buy another switch .
Bulletman
When the system trips and goes to the “lowered” height setting you can sometimes overcome this with the GAP tool by adding 50mm to the standard height. Can also do the same with GOE lift rods.
Now when the fault occurs and it drops the suspension it will actually be tricked into being at normal height.
I ran for several months like this without any drama’s whilst fault finding a problem.
The retarded bullbar installer broke a weld on my genuine LR bullbar and decided to fix it with 1 x pop rivet. That probably would have been ok for most city only driving, except a few months ago I mounted my ‘remote locations’, 7 foot UHF antenna and drive the 6 hours to ‘Hiltaba’ (wildlife reserve north west of the Gawler Ranges. I came home with a disturbing amount of movement on that side of the upper bullbar bar.
Here’s a pic of the now welded part in questionhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...373b0870c8.jpg
I can’t weld aluminium so I paid a local boilermaker to do the job. He welded it up quite nicely and then upper bar is now solid
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bcf412bfcd.jpg
And a pic of the other side for comparison
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...61da1097b3.jpg
Don’t forget that this is a collapsible bullbar not a solid ARB steel bar