What happened to your D3/D4 today?

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Originally Posted by Gravy

I am attempting to bring the servicing level to where it should be on my 2014 L319.

Today I tackled three projects:

Engine oil and filter change taught me two things, put the the new filter cartridge in the block and not the cannister when fitting, too obtain an oil level read the engine must be at rest for 30 minutes after it has been run to circulate the new oil.

Exchanging the fuel filter has a degree of difficulty that I have not previously encountered. The problem was aggravated by the fact that my replacement filter had no indexing marks, may be purchase genuine next time.

Auto box and filter change. This vehicle has just clicked over 120,000 and probably has not had a lot of TLC , LR pushed the envelope with their claims this is a sealed unit and does not require service. Draining the oil revealed transmission fluid the same colour as the engine oil I had exchanged and the filter pad in the same condition. In the future the oil will be exchanged every 30K and filter every 60K, clean fluid has to enhance the longevity of the box.

Removal and fitment of the pan also has a high level of difficulty because of minimum clearances and will not part company until the bracket supporting the loom on the drivers side is removed, the pan drainplug boss is not level with the interior face of the pan therefore you cannot completely drain the pan. A recipe to give you a bath.

Removal of the pan bolts located above the cross members can be achieved using a 1/4 drive Torx and a 1/4 cranked ring spanner for those that do not own every tool in the shed.

Progress is slow however "The List" is getting shorter.

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Engine oil level can be achieved instantly if the bonnet is open, and then you go to the oil level section and press the cruise control cancel button twice. Bonnet must be open.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gravy

I am attempting to bring the servicing level to where it should be on my 2014 L319.

Today I tackled three projects:

Engine oil and filter change taught me two things, put the the new filter cartridge in the block and not the cannister when fitting, too obtain an oil level read the engine must be at rest for 30 minutes after it has been run to circulate the new oil.

Exchanging the fuel filter has a degree of difficulty that I have not previously encountered. The problem was aggravated by the fact that my replacement filter had no indexing marks, may be purchase genuine next time.

Auto box and filter change. This vehicle has just clicked over 120,000 and probably has not had a lot of TLC , LR pushed the envelope with their claims this is a sealed unit and does not require service. Draining the oil revealed transmission fluid the same colour as the engine oil I had exchanged and the filter pad in the same condition. In the future the oil will be exchanged every 30K and filter every 60K, clean fluid has to enhance the longevity of the box.

Removal and fitment of the pan also has a high level of difficulty because of minimum clearances and will not part company until the bracket supporting the loom on the drivers side is removed, the pan drainplug boss is not level with the interior face of the pan therefore you cannot completely drain the pan. A recipe to give you a bath.

Removal of the pan bolts located above the cross members can be achieved using a 1/4 drive Torx and a 1/4 cranked ring spanner for those that do not own every tool in the shed.

Progress is slow however "The List" is getting shorter.

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Not sure why you considered it necessary to fit oil filter element in block first?
I always put my element in the canister, pushing until it is basically flush with canister opening and then screw down into the housing assembly.

After you've changed the auto oil two or three times and got it nice and clean, changing every 60-70 odd thousand should be sufficient even with towing often.

The genuine fuel filter is too expensive, around $100 odd. Pretty much all the other suppliers have the indexing marks, you must have been unlucky with your choice.

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Originally Posted by josh.huber

I thought I would rebush the whole set of control arms.. im at 270 I think. The rears held up well so I wanted genuine bushes again instead of aftermarket arms. I will would not recommend it to others. It's become a **** job. Yes I've saved a heap of cash. But im glad we are locked down. I've been in the driveway since 9 am and only done 1 corner. I did a hand brake adjustment while I was there and flushed the brakes. Hoping the second side will be quicker

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I did the handbrake and bedding in adjustment the other day, EPB now winds/retracts nicely, small and short amounts during engage/disengage. Caught it probably at the right time after the “park brake fault, and horrid winding sound).


When you lot do the oil changes, how many litres do you extract? I seem to get just a shy of 5L if that. I make sure the oil level is at -2 bars <-> maximum most times.

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Originally Posted by Discodicky

Not sure why you considered it necessary to fit oil filter element in block first?
I always put my element in the canister, pushing until it is basically flush with canister opening and then screw down into the housing assembly.

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NEVER fit the filter to the cap with a 2.7 in the D3 as its filter has a spigot that must locate in its hole in the filter housing to avoid bypassing the filter, with a dead engine the usual result.

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Originally Posted by Graeme

NEVER fit the filter to the cap with a 2.7 in the D3 as its filter has a spigot that must locate in its hole in the filter housing to avoid bypassing the filter, with a dead engine the usual result.

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Yep, absolutely aware of that, I always ensured the filter with spigot was fitted correctly into housing then installed the canister in my sons D3 2.7 but I think the OP has a 3.0 litre, hence not applicable.

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Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

Injector (OEM) LR014205 LR054297 Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.

Island are best so far

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Have you asked United Fuel Injection for a price? I ended up buying my HPFP from them. It worked out marginally more expensive than from the UK, but it was available next day and local warranty.

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Originally Posted by BradC

Have you asked United Fuel Injection for a price? I ended up buying my HPFP from them. It worked out marginally more expensive than from the UK, but it was available next day and local warranty.

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No. I’ll give them a call next week. Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gravy

I am attempting to bring the servicing level to where it should be on my 2014 L319.

Today I tackled three projects:

Engine oil and filter change taught me two things, put the the new filter cartridge in the block and not the cannister when fitting, too obtain an oil level read the engine must be at rest for 30 minutes after it has been run to circulate the new oil.

Exchanging the fuel filter has a degree of difficulty that I have not previously encountered. The problem was aggravated by the fact that my replacement filter had no indexing marks, may be purchase genuine next time.

Auto box and filter change. This vehicle has just clicked over 120,000 and probably has not had a lot of TLC , LR pushed the envelope with their claims this is a sealed unit and does not require service. Draining the oil revealed transmission fluid the same colour as the engine oil I had exchanged and the filter pad in the same condition. In the future the oil will be exchanged every 30K and filter every 60K, clean fluid has to enhance the longevity of the box.

Removal and fitment of the pan also has a high level of difficulty because of minimum clearances and will not part company until the bracket supporting the loom on the drivers side is removed, the pan drainplug boss is not level with the interior face of the pan therefore you cannot completely drain the pan. A recipe to give you a bath.

Removal of the pan bolts located above the cross members can be achieved using a 1/4 drive Torx and a 1/4 cranked ring spanner for those that do not own every tool in the shed.

Progress is slow however "The List" is getting shorter.

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Well done

1. Filter has to click home inside filter housing, then fit that to the oil cooler on the block. You risk crushing the element if it just sits on the block and you screw the housing onto it.

2. Fuel filter, just watch where the connector has to end up, its a pretty easy fit. I normally turn the ignition to let the in tank fuel pump prime the filter, otherwise it will run then stall.

3. Agreed, "Sealed for lifetime only as long as the warranty lasts. Change fluid and filter every 60k km should be fine. Original plastic pan has to be broken to get it out, steel pan and separate filter is way better. Hope you replaced the mechatronic seal and the valve body to transmission seals as well. Dropping the front cross member and raising the transmission gives good clearance, still a pita though.

Glad you're getting it sorted

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Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

Well done

1. Filter has to click home inside filter housing, then fit that to the oil cooler on the block. You risk crushing the element if it just sits on the block and you screw the housing onto it.

2. Fuel filter, just watch where the connector has to end up, its a pretty easy fit. I normally turn the ignition to let the in tank fuel pump prime the filter, otherwise it will run then stall.

3. Agreed, "Sealed for lifetime only as long as the warranty lasts. Change fluid and filter every 60k km should be fine. Original plastic pan has to be broken to get it out, steel pan and separate filter is way better. Hope you replaced the mechatronic seal and the valve body to transmission seals as well. Dropping the front cross member and raising the transmission gives good clearance, still a pita though.

Glad you're getting it sorted

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Hi Mate

Afraid I was not aware of the seals you mention benefitting from being exchanged. Appreciate a steer on the methodology to do so so it can be done the next time I drop the pan.

Finished the rear rebush and compressor rebuild. The 4x4 air seals video is better in my opinion.. Plenty of rain here so I've nosed it in the shed and finished the intake leak. Couldn't find any splits. Checked invoices and seals used at inlet manifold job were aftermarket. Hopefully the new genuine seals get the job done.

Now to start front upper control arm bushes