Good job, never found the need for a ladder myself but if i did i would be making it - i find the rear step or standing on a rear tyre works for me.
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I heard of this also, but never knew you can disable them electronically. On a side note, can you disable the “oil level monitoring fault” notifications??
I’d only replace the water pump being it’s age, I’ve known two other mates who water pump failed circa make 2011-12 when their low coolant level notification played up.
Front Wheel bearings today, rears tomorrow or Sunday. Old hubs came out easy, original timken, 219000km.Attachment 176006Attachment 176007
Attachment 176008
New hub nut done to 230nm, mount bolts to 115nm.
Everything got a good clean out, bit of corrosion in the hub bore and especially in the abs sensor housings.
Oh and caliper mount bolts to 275Nm make sure the threads are clean.
My RRS has now 202,000 on the original wheel bearings and no issue at the moment but I guess the need to change will come soon.
I did put up a post a while back asking whether the rear wheel bearings are basically the same as the front in that the entire bearing housing with bearing installed is changed rather than just the bearing - got no response.
From your post, I take it that you just change out the entire rear bearing housing rather than just the bearing? Is that correct?
What sort of price are we looking at for all four corners with Timkin bearings - any other consumables needed?
Thanks
Garry
Correct, the rears are a different set up to the front. Rears are a pressed in roller bearing. Need to take out the entire hub assembly. Wish it was same as the front, easy replacement in 20min a side.
I bought from AF in the UK, was around 900 AUD including freight. Took 5 days to get here and that was just before Christmas.
I bought timken.