What happened to your D3/D4 today?

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Originally Posted by IndusD4

Are the plugs under the left tail light easily accessible or does that require the rear bumper to be removed?

Thanks
Ron

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I’d call them ‘Land Rover easy’

Three plugs, each mounted on a bracket. You can slide them off with finger tips, then there is enough slack in the cable to pull them up out of the hole below the light to unplug. Naturally, the bottom plug is the one you need for the 12S. The 12N (black socket) is spread over the top two plugs.
I unplugged all three, as that allowed easier access to each one below.

There is a 10mm bolt holding the bumper on right there, which I did remove to give just a little more space, but I didn’t remove the bumper.

Underneath, there is a bit of electrical tape binding the cables together. I did this in 45 degree heat, so that tape was pretty soft/pliable :-)

Thanks for the info. I'm going to replace the 12S socket with a 13pin socket and remove the 12N socket on mine. Then change the van to match.

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Originally Posted by IndusD4

Thanks for the info. I'm going to replace the 12S socket with a 13pin socket and remove the 12N socket on mine. Then change the van to match.

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I’d never trust the pins on the 12 pin sockets to carry heavy current.

And the 13 pin is so uncommon here, you’ll be limiting options for recovery if needed.

Stick with the mainstream standards in AU for towing set ups.

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Originally Posted by Tombie

I’d never trust the pins on the 12 pin sockets to carry heavy current.

And the 13 pin is so uncommon here, you’ll be limiting options for recovery if needed.

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The twelve pins connected on the 13pin plug are the same as on the 12S and 12N combined, I'm not changing wiring to allow higher amps - I don't need that for my van. I'll also change the plug on my box trailer, but as others borrow it from time to time I will keep a 13pin socket to AU 7 pin adapter which can be used for the van (recovery) as well.

That way, I don't need any adapter myself. With the van currently having a 12pin flat and the trailer a 7 pin flat plug I would have to use an adapter to connect to the 12S and 12N sockets. I prefer less connections, less to go wrong.

As for Australian trailer plugs my gripe is with the pins closing up giving a poor connection. Admittedly this was more a problem when I rented trailers, not so much now I have my own.

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Originally Posted by IndusD4

The twelve pins connected on the 13pin plug are the same as on the 12S and 12N combined, I'm not changing wiring to allow higher amps - I don't need that for my van. I'll also change the plug on my box trailer, but as others borrow it from time to time I will keep a 13pin socket to AU 7 pin adapter which can be used for the van (recovery) as well.

That way, I don't need any adapter myself. With the van currently having a 12pin flat and the trailer a 7 pin flat plug I would have to use an adapter to connect to the 12S and 12N sockets. I prefer less connections, less to go wrong.

As for Australian trailer plugs my gripe is with the pins closing up giving a poor connection. Admittedly this was more a problem when I rented trailers, not so much now I have my own.

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I may have missed something, why not just change the van plug to match the car? Same for the trailer, and keep a 7 large round to 7 small round or flat adapter for when friends borrow?

I put a large round plug on my trailer, so it plugs without adapter into the car. The cover acts as a mechanical catch when in use, preventing the plug from coming out.

Had a bit of fun over the Xmas break, a mate took us down to windy harbour over the back roads to the beach.

Seen a couple false coolant low warnings while off the beaten track, so I’ll start pocketing for a new water pump as a preventative measure on the oldie.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c4e0126b02.jpg

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Originally Posted by imaz

Had a bit of fun over the Xmas break, a mate took us down to windy harbour over the back roads to the beach.

Seen a couple false coolant low warnings while off the beaten track, so I’ll start pocketing for a new water pump as a preventative measure on the oldie.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c4e0126b02.jpg

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Love the photo, I did that with the windows open once! Still finding sand on the dash today.

Enjoy making stuff so decided to make my own Roof Rack Ladder - all up the material cost me about $ 85.00.

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Originally Posted by imaz

Had a bit of fun over the Xmas break, a mate took us down to windy harbour over the back roads to the beach.

Seen a couple false coolant low warnings while off the beaten track, so I’ll start pocketing for a new water pump as a preventative measure on the oldie.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c4e0126b02.jpg

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It's not the water pump, there is a low coolant sensor in the header tank, they fail.

When I realised they had them, I checked it all out and most are disabled from factory, so I turned ours on, it worked well until I replaced the tank, then constant warnings...

I messed around with it but it still kept faulting so I turned it off in the CCF again.

Cheers
James

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Originally Posted by shack

It's not the water pump, there is a low coolant sensor in the header tank, they fail.

When I realised they had them, I checked it all out and most are disabled from factory, so I turned ours on, it worked well until I replaced the tank, then constant warnings...

I messed around with it but it still kept faulting so I turned it off in the CCF again.

Cheers
James

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They are known to fail but never heard them being disabled before. Kind of an important warning you want to have.