What happened to your D3/D4 today?

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Originally Posted by RANDLOVER

I've heard the crank stub is a bit soft and after 250 000km's or so a ridge might be felt, in which case the remedy seems to be to fit a seal with a spring to help it conform to the shaft better than just the neoprene or whatever the original seal is made of.

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Not certain this is viable for this situation, normal practice to address a worn or damaged shaft is to fit a a "Speedi Sleeve", has got me out of trouble on diff pinion shafts.

[QUOTE=Gravy;3174271]Not certain this is viable for this situation, normal practice to address a worn or damaged shaft is to fit a a "Speedi Sleeve", has got me out of trouble on diff pinion shafts.[/QUO

A Speedi-Sleeve was considered but I don't think there is room for it in the oil pump application.

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Originally Posted by l00kin4

Hmm. Well, my hopes that an iffy brake pedal switch might be the cause of my shift lock issues (rotary selector wouldn't move out of Park) have now been dashed. I had to follow the excellent guide here 8 speed shift lock solenoid problems to release the lock and I then also installed the temporary 'release mechanism' aka cable tie...

I couldn't find a fault with the solenoid or anything obvious on the control board so although I touched up the soldering on a few joints, I bit the bullet and forked out the ~$1,000 to have it replaced. Didn't really want to live with the uncertainty.[bighmmm]

Great service from Roving Mechanical with Glen replacing it for me on the spot. Glad they had the module in stock...

David

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Was it necessary to re-programme the new module to the car?
Or simply a straight swap over?

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Originally Posted by Discodicky

Was it necessary to re-programme the new module to the car?
Or simply a straight swap over?

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No reprogramming needed after changing the module.

For mine, I put a screw in the module that prevents the interlock from engaging. Maybe once a year I forget to put my foot on the brake when moving the gear selector from park and the selector goes automatically into neutral, pretty easy to live with and saves $1000. It's surprising how my right foot is trained to hit the brake when selecting D!

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Originally Posted by l00kin4

Glad they had the module in stock...

David

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Would seem to suggest that it's not an uncommon issue.

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Originally Posted by Tins

Would seem to suggest that it's not an uncommon issue.

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Yes, agree. He said they normally try to have 2 in stock...

Dropped my wheels in to the tyre shop to have some wildpeaks fitted in 265/65/18, been meaning to do this for a while but thought i may as well wear out the old tyres first.

Swapped to my original set of wheels then topped up the air from my onboard compressor, just finished and was coiling up the hose and about to disconnect from the rear and i heard a pop then air escaping.
Found a split in the airline which got hot then burst, will be replacing it with a nylon pneumatic hose then has a higher heat resistance and is semi rigid.

X-Lifter doing its thing levelling up the brick

Yes, no programming, just swap and go. A pretty easy job.

I did consider making a similar mod to disable the locking function but had a slight, probably unfounded, nag in my mind that if the module is faulty it may exhibit other problems at some point. The image in my mind when thinking of any disabling issue is sitting on the beach with the tide coming in... I can do without any unnecessary angst, so replaced it. [bigsmile1]

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Originally Posted by Lusby

No reprogramming needed after changing the module.

For mine, I put a screw in the module that prevents the interlock from engaging. Maybe once a year I forget to put my foot on the brake when moving the gear selector from park and the selector goes automatically into neutral, pretty easy to live with and saves $1000. It's surprising how my right foot is trained to hit the brake when selecting D!

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Originally Posted by Tins

Would seem to suggest that it's not an uncommon issue.

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After reading on this Forum that it is a 'moderately' common problem I decided to change mine out pre-failure last year at approx 160,000 klms. I couldn't find anyone to confirm if it needed the Dealer to re-programme the car or whether it was a simple change over.
I ended up letting the local Dealer supply & fit and it cost about $1100.00

I wanted to avoid an unplanned failure way out in the woop woop with my caravan on tow.....

I still have the old unit which was performing fine, but "made" in 2013 and hopefully the new unit has been upgraded......