You spray it regularly with dry lube and graphite.Quote:
Originally Posted by BradC
You also take the hitch out when not in use - prevents this problem and also prevents wear to the housing it connects into.
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You spray it regularly with dry lube and graphite.Quote:
Originally Posted by BradC
You also take the hitch out when not in use - prevents this problem and also prevents wear to the housing it connects into.
This is important with all mechanical locks. Given a lock is open where it accepts a key it is also open to foreign bodies. Any wet lube will trap and hold these, eventually causing the lock to bind. Even locks with shutters are vulnerable as dirt and crap enters with the key. And we all know that Aussie bulldust gets into everything.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
It’s not the lock mechanism that is the issue, it’s the pin on the end that limits the mechanism’s movement. The lock itself wasn’t corroded, but the pin on the end was. You want something that forces its way through the lock to the pin at the end to prevent that corroding. See image above.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tins
Fair enough. I was responding to comments from Tombie and BradC. With that pin I reckon I'd use something like SteelSeal. It doesn't tend to be sticky once dry and sticks around for longer than say WD.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster
I think, as Tombie said, the best approach is to remove the thing when it’s not in use to avoid the corrosion that occurs. Alternativel, and also part of that part would be to remove it from the vehicle, spray copious amounts of corrosion preventing lube into the locking mechanism while the things is on its end so the lube flows down to the pin and covers it. Do this annually and you’d probably avoid the issue. Another annual task for the list [emoji4]Quote:
Originally Posted by Tins
Even regularly exercising the lock would help to remove some corrosion
I've heard the crank stub is a bit soft and after 250 000km's or so a ridge might be felt, in which case the remedy seems to be to fit a seal with a spring to help it conform to the shaft better than just the neoprene or whatever the original seal is made of.Quote:
Originally Posted by Airmech953
Spotted at Perth airport today (not mine). Interesting mods
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f953c4bc80.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e9ed98060c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...218bf3ea35.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e0c9405fc6.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4283a49f6a.jpg
LS swap would be fruity
Thanks for the tip. the shaft was ok - no ridge. the seal had migrated out of it's housing. I fitted the new seal in with some Loctite, hopefully it stays put.Quote:
Originally Posted by RANDLOVER
Familiar mods! Doubt it has the LS [emoji41]Quote:
Originally Posted by PerthDisco
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f58495a062.jpg
Mine just runs a 48” curved LED bar
Hmm. Well, my hopes that an iffy brake pedal switch might be the cause of my shift lock issues (rotary selector wouldn't move out of Park) have now been dashed. I had to follow the excellent guide here 8 speed shift lock solenoid problems to release the lock and I then also installed the temporary 'release mechanism' aka cable tie...
I couldn't find a fault with the solenoid or anything obvious on the control board so although I touched up the soldering on a few joints, I bit the bullet and forked out the ~$1,000 to have it replaced. Didn't really want to live with the uncertainty.[bighmmm]
Great service from Roving Mechanical with Glen replacing it for me on the spot. Glad they had the module in stock...
David