Reply With QuoteHow many km?Originally Posted by shanegtr
Wizard
SupporterI work FIFO so I'm not in the disco for 8 days so the vibration was really obvious to me. Vibration was kinda low frequency and coming mostly from the front left so that narrows the search down a little. I was thinking it could have one of a few things, but my first thought was a broken/cracked tooth in the front diff crown wheel. However I used my LAMMS for +50mm over 60km/h and the vibs got worse so I decided to have a quick look at the CV - rocking the disco in park back and forth I could see the vertical movement at the inner joint which it isn't supposed to have - figured fairly confidently that was the cause.
https://youtube.com/shorts/LHKriYnTsk4?feature=share
Shane
2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/220914-too-many-defender-write-ups-here-time-d3.html
TopicToaster
SubscriberHow many km?
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
Wizard
Supporter420,000km
Shane
2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/220914-too-many-defender-write-ups-here-time-d3.html
ChatterBox
SubscriberPhew! Got 150,000 to go. Just run in.
Master
Hard to say definitively as it was an intermittent issue and only happened a few times.
Hasn't happened again since changing the brake switch so fingers crossed...
David
Everything is easy when someone else is doing it
MY14 SDV6 SE Corris Grey
Compomotive 18s : D697s : Traxide DBS : LLAMS : ARB compressor : IC-455
Rhino Platform : GOE compressor, Tx & front bash plates, deluxe sliders
Master
SupporterI loaned my 05 TDV6 to my son a couple of days ago. I got it back with an oily film over the tailgate and rear window. After washing the car I went to drive it and saw the oil light flicker and heard the warning chime, so I abandoned the drive and went straight to the shed. Turns out the crankshaft oil seal has failed after only 10000km or so. now I have to strip the front of the engine again - hopefully the crankshaft seal surface isn't damaged.
ChatterBox
SubscriberMy worst fear after recently changing oil pump but I followed the rules to the letter- no lubricant- correct tool to insert 1mm deep - turned over engine but did not start for 12 hours. I did very lightly use some 2000 grit paper to clean the shaft surface before. And genuine seal. Fingers crossed.
Super ModeratorHopefully the crankshaft journals aren't damaged.
MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.
Swaggie
I used seal retainer on mine to ensure that it wasn't going to move.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
ChatterBox
SubscriberThe genuine seal completely dry going into the dry pump goes in with a lot of resistance. I also followed the LR Time priming method and added no oil to the pump before fitting which must risk wetting the seal surface.
My fear is how much torture I had to apply to get the seal onto the borrowed VR shaft fitting tool. The lip is like a Tupperware bowl and not soft rubber. Buying the pre loaded VR seal would be good as the genuine seal expects you have the genuine LR tool.
The instructions also say leaving the driving tool (which winds in using the crank bolt) in place for a while once seal is at its max depth and not backing it off too quickly. It would be faster to just tap the tool in.
Letting the seal rest in place before starting to form the exact shape is a critical yet overlooked procedure.
There’s a lot of recommended steps and for sure 99% of time in real mechanic world there’s no trouble. The guy on Disco3UK starts his up straight away for example with no rest time on the seal. Doing it by the book adds heaps of extra time and phaffing around.
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