Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

Great work! What was needed to get it down and angled enough to remove through the back?

I had to “massage” it down so that one side was at the top and the other was down at base level to get it out, mainly because of the ducts for the rear ac get in the way with how they’re built into the roof liner. There will need to be some repairs as the hot glue used to fix them didn’t take to my massaging too well. I dread getting it back in!

I also dread putting all the panel back in without rattles and creaks.

Thursday is the re-lining day and I’ll consider reinstalling that day or the following. No rush.

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

I had to “massage” it down so that one side was at the top and the other was down at base level to get it out, mainly because of the ducts for the rear ac get in the way with how they’re built into the roof liner. There will need to be some repairs as the hot glue used to fix them didn’t take to my massaging too well. I dread getting it back in!

I also dread putting all the panel back in without rattles and creaks.

Thursday is the re-lining day and I’ll consider reinstalling that day or the following. No rush.

Do you need to remove a side in the rear area? What position were the seats?

Fortunately I don’t have rear AC. The guy at B Trimmed in Osborne Park will recover mine if I remove it but he said rear AC was borderline impossible. He said the width makes them a real challenge you need the widest possible roll and must be placed perfectly central to for the take up of the curves.

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

Do you need to remove a side in the rear area? What position were the seats?

Fortunately I don’t have rear AC. The guy at B Trimmed in Osborne Park will recover mine if I remove it but he said rear AC was borderline impossible. He said the width makes them a real challenge you need the widest possible roll and must be placed perfectly central to for the take up of the curves.

I think I will do a lot more disassembly before reinstalling. I didn’t take out the sides, though I had to take out all the upper pillars - which again, without taking out the lowers required some ‘coaxing’ and ranting. Seats in the rear lowered - I will lower the fronts to get it back in too.

I also now have the dreaded red glue foam crap everywhere which is inevitable on removal. Have to clean that up internally before reinstalling because I don’t want that on the new one.

I’ll keep you updated.

After a stint of driving through water and mud... the D4 developed a grinding squeal from the front drivers wheel... and an increased thumping from the air compressor when moving between ride heights. Investigation:
(Job1 - squeaky break noise) a stone caught in behind the brake disc in the rotor shield, being ably assisted by another stone jambed between the outer tie rod end and the rotor shield. Easily fixed by prying the two stoneyt collaborators out.

Stone jambed between rotor shield and outer tie rod end.jpg Releasing stone from within rotor shield.jpg Stones jambing against rotor shield.jpg

(Job 2 - noisy compressor) took the APT compressor guard off to find it chockers with muddy gravel, took the compressor casing off and found it also chockers with the same muddy gravel tightly wedging the compressor and preventing the shock absorbing bushes from doing their thing... hence the vibration noise... all cleaned out (a pile of dirt enough to start a vege patch) and back to normal. Obviously this should be a routine maintenance task going forward.

APT Compressor Guard.jpg APT guard full of soil.jpg Land Rover Compressor case filled with soil.jpg Pile of soil from compressor casings.jpg

Originally Posted by Naps

Obviously this should be a routine maintenance task going forward.

I found regular flush with a hose through the front slots in the APT guard usually means you won’t have to remove it to clean out.

Originally Posted by LRD414

I found regular flush with a hose through the front slots in the APT guard usually means you won’t have to remove it to clean out.

Exactly what I do after every off road trip. a good hose out with plenty of high pressure clean water get an amazing amount of crap out every time

Originally Posted by LRD414

I found regular flush with a hose through the front slots in the APT guard usually means you won’t have to remove it to clean out.

Hi Scott,
Thanks, I was thinking the same thing... and should have been doing so previously. Not sure that it will solve the issue of the compressor casing getting filled with mud as well. To get to that you need obviously to remove the guard and then the casing. In my situation it was almost packed solid with mud and that was causing the vibration of the compressor creating the thudding sound that alerted me in the first place.
Cheers
Naps

I had the same thing with the Prospeed guard and drilled multiple drain holes in the base at the rear (12mm) and chamfered then repainted.

A quick hose each wash keeps it clear now.