Run it thru one of the wiring grommets.Quote:
Originally Posted by veebs
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Run it thru one of the wiring grommets.Quote:
Originally Posted by veebs
I guess you could add run it under the lower tailgate flap and into the cargo area. Only issue is those cables are only 90cm or 120cm. Not sure 120 would be long enough. Also I feel constant flexing of cable skin as you open and close tailgate may lead to premature fatigue failure. With the one I have nothing moves unless I pull the lever. It only needs about a 15mm pull. And mine is a loose sleeve over the lug end of the original cable.Quote:
Originally Posted by veebs
I’m going down the dark tunnel of P0087 and P2290 fuel system faults ending in a lowered limp mode car.
So still hoping for a simple problem on the LP side but in checking the local price on a VDO HPFP seems a brand new EU4 pump has gone from about $1500 in 2019 to about $2900 today. Thanks Covid-19.
Every one else sells reman pumps around $1500.
Anyone found a bargain lately?
When I did this I went to a bike shop and bought a brake cable for a Tandem bike…plenty long enough, and steel sheathed.Quote:
Originally Posted by dirvine
x 2 Worked a treat.Quote:
Originally Posted by SimmAus
Scott has written up an excellent guide to do this which many of us have followed. No issues with fouling a few years down the track for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by veebs
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-disc...ml#post2835155
David
****. Cruising along, got a pop, then Engine Fault, stall, and coast to a stop. Engine turns over sweetly on the starter, but nothing more.
Codes are pointing to fuel pressure.
My poor little VW Tiguan managed to drag the big girl back home (wasn't far), and it's now having a little rest in the driveway.
I dare say i've snapped a fuel pump belt. And if thats the case, it raises the question of whether it was changed when the dealer did the timing belt a few years back. By all accounts a more tricky belt to change, and any warranty is long passed by the time it lets go.
Total pain in the ass, but given we plan to do the Gibb in a few months, better to fail now I suppose...
Go now and just float with the tide. Problem Solved. :wasntme:Quote:
Originally Posted by veebs
Checking LP fuel pump. With engine off and jumping relay I get this pressure which is really good and flow and amps are good also. Pump is silent.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...14ed916575.jpg
With relay in and engine idling I get this pressure
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a510016127.jpg
Can anyone confirm that’s about right. The difference is the fact the HPFP is demanding some flow I would assume?
Have swapped relays around and no change.
Needle is consistent and unwavering in both cases.
Going back through my notes I never tried the "jump the relay" trick. My measurements were all taken with the engine running and sat between 0.3 & 0.4 bar. Like I said yesterday, it drops to 0 and even a little into vacuum when doing a long hard third gear pull up the on-ramp.
Have you tried the "cycle the key but don't start the engine"? At key on it should run the pump for > 10 seconds. Be interesting to see what pressure develops while the pump is powered through the relay but without the engine running.