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Replaced the B MAF sensor after having the D4 go into reduced performance mode Saturday morning. What did we do before we had forums and youtube to guide us??
Next job is to replace the coolant tank and sensor to stop the "Low coolant level alarm" Never done anything with coolant systems before, how hard is it to bleed the system after it's done?
Cheers
envee
Bought the local mechanic a beer on Friday afternoon in exchange for friendly advice or spoke to a mate who'd done it before. Failing that, pulled it apart and laid out all the parts in order until we reached the broken bit, replaced that and then put them back in reverse order.Quote:
Originally Posted by envee
Pretty easy. Bleeder near the top hose and one on the EGR cross over pipe. Get the bubbles out then run it fast to sweep the rest of the bubbles into the coolant bottle.Quote:
Originally Posted by envee
I used 2 pliers that I cable tied shut over the flexible hoses to block them off before removing the tank. I spilled only a very small amount this way, and was even able to transfer the fluid in the old overflow into the replacement. Barely a bubble in the system after I was finished (though I still checked of course)Quote:
Originally Posted by envee
Adjusted the handbrake following Bodsy's guide. On my 2014 D4 the hub bolt is not 32mm (looked more like 34mm?) so I reverted to the LR Time technique - tighten until locked by hand then mark the adjuster and back off one turn. First time I've done this and I reckon the motor in the brake actuator runs for a shorter time (good).
Changed the oil and put in Penrite HPR5 5W-40, as per LR Time's recommendation - also it meets the Ford spec.
Found this little guy sitting on the under tray - its 6mm x 15mm. Any ideas where this might have come from? With such a large thread pitch I'd say its going into plastic or one of those thin pressed steel captive nuts?
Attachment 184013
Fixed the low brake warning alarm. I knew the brake pads and discs were relatively new (this time last year when I replaced them myself), so I suspected that either the sensor on the front left or rear left was broken and causing the alarm on the dash. Pulled the front left wheel off and low and behold the wiring loom running along the chassis rail was 'loose' and had been worn through by the inside edge of the front tyre [bigsad]. You'll never guess which individual wire was worn through to the point of failure? Yep, that's right the wire running to the brake sensor. Wire strip and solder, taped up the offending wire and re-conduited and cable tied up the loom and the low brake warning is gone [bigsmile]. One of the easiest fixes I've had on the big girl since we've owned her.
Stop driving your car immediately - that bolt holds the crank togetherQuote:
Originally Posted by ScottLS
Along with your hopes and dreamsQuote:
Originally Posted by John_D4
I have been thinking of doing this job for some time. As we are going on a remote trip later this year I had a look at Upper Tailgate Internal Release Modification for Land Rover Discovery 3 & 4
and
LR3/LR4 REQUIRED UPGRADE: Prevent Rear Door Failure for ~$25 | Expedition Portal
With the Powerful unit cost I looked up flea bay and saw:
6mm Sound Deadener Foam Car Heat Shield Noise Insulation Deadening Mat Firewall | eBay
Metal Recliner Handle Lever Trigger Replacement With Release Cable Lounge Chairs | eBay
So for a total outlay of $31.44 i did the job.
All I needed extra was apiece of tin to wrap around the existing cable and a few cable ties.
https://attachment.outlook.live.net/...animation=true
This is on my to do list but i want the cable long enough that i can put the release near the 2nd row seats as i have a cargo barrier and drawers.Quote:
Originally Posted by dirvine
How would you do that? Wouldn’t the cable foul up when opening/closing the boot?Quote:
Originally Posted by loanrangie
