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Good idea as ever!Quote:
Originally Posted by BradC
Turning key it jumps up to 6.5psi immediately and settles back to 4 to 4.5psi on startup so that must be the difference of the HPFP running and returning fuel to tank. Hard to see anything wrong with that.
Blipping the throttle pressure does sink even further.
A great way to keep an eye on the fuel filter performance over time.
As highlighted by Discodicky here : What happened to your D3/D4 today? there is a 0.8mm orifice in the return line which means the fuel actually returned to the tank is restricted. It's mainly an air bleed. In general the HPFP circulates the fuel around through the filter and cooler with a minimal return to the tank. That also explains why when the HPFP feed pump lunches itself the shavings mostly wind up in the filter rather than the tank.Quote:
Originally Posted by PerthDisco
I can't explain the pressure difference, but I see about the same running pressure you do (or I did when I last tested it in 2019).
Just for interest I used a water fluid flow calculator for an 0.8mm orifice at the ~4psi pressure differential and got ~10L/hr. It'd be less for diesel.
It's interesting. I read all sorts of gumph on various forums about "your low pressure pump should be delivering between 1.5 & 3L / minute". The service manual says the maximum output at 12.3V (which would be about right for a not-running test) is 70L/hr (or 1.16L/min). That's at the pump. By the time you add the pipes, filter and schrader valve that's going to be a lot less. To get anything closer to usable you'd be wanting to take the valve core out and using a large bore tube.
I know the D4 has a different in-tank pump setup, so this doesn't apply there, but for the D3 you're never going to get anywhere near 1L/min in a normal testing scenario.
Quick report on Installation of a Kings Domin8r Extreme 12,000 lb winch, to an Opposite Lock D4 bull bar.
Installed inside my daughter's D4 bull bar, ahead of her planned trip to Fraser Island.
Fitted the winch "in situ" as the bull bar was already in place. It's a two person job, but quite doable. I recommend that you have a jack, with a block of 4"x2" in place, to hold the substantial weight of the winch.
The radiator zone air deflector (air dam) needs to be trimmed back to make room for the winch. All good.
Rotated the winch clutch 90 degrees to provide external operating access to the handle, through the OL Bull bar. All good.
The OL bull bar's mounting holes match up well to the winch's mounting platform. All good.
The supplied Control Box mounting bracket needs two new holes drilled to allow the box to mounted further forward, so as to clear the radiator grill. All good after re-fit.
Heavy duty, well insulated cables and adequate lengths to reach the second battery position. All good.
The supplied fairlead's mounting holes place the fairlead lower than the ideal position. Not as good as i would like, but the synthetic rope does runs through it OK, so it is really just a cosmetic issue.
Hooked it up to the second battery and tested it. Discovered that the Optima D34 Yellow Top was no longer performing. Not good. However, it was approx. 5 years old.
Connected to the cranking battery and it operated correctly. All good.
In connecting to the cranking battery, we found that the negative cable was only JUST long enough to reach that battery, at a big stretch over the top of the radiator. You could not keep it installed like this and would need to purchase a longer length of negative cable, if you planned to run the winch from the cranking battery.
Ran out the synthetic rope and tensioned it. All good.
Pleased with the outcome, with exception of fairlead position's cosmetics. It looks low.
Now shopping for a second battery replacement. According to Forum posts, the longevity of the Optima D34 has declined in recent years, which coincided with the manufacturing moving from the USA to Mexico. Yes?
I will check an alternative: Say, SSB’s HVT-70LD. My research says it will fit in the space and the terminal can be changed to a lower clearance, so no bonnet interference.
Your comments on 2nd battery would be welcome please?
Thank you everyone for your generosity in sharing your knowledge and experience.
Best wishes, Jeff
You dont need to run the winch neg cable to the battery, use one of the earthing studs in front of the main battery where you winch should be powered from, SSB seems to be the new go to for an aux battery. You may need an offset fairlead for the rope to run out cleanly, i fitted a kings grande and needed the offset fairlead.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffoir
You need to eat more weeties, i mounted my winch and bar on my own [thumbsupbig]
Nice work JeffQuote:
Originally Posted by Jeffoir
Couple of points.
Always use the primary battery for winch.
Earth point for winch is to chassis stud just in front of battery box - no devices should go to Neg terminal of primary battery.
Odometer showed 357000 on the way the way to work this morning. That's 140000 of use for us.
On a road trip: Sydney, Kangaroo Island, Sydney…all going well..https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery...afe1d2105d.jpg
Looking good.Quote:
Originally Posted by SimmAus
I have a near identical setup with the Prospeed rack and hinged awning brackets.
May I ask what shovel mounts you've got on there?
Home made / adapted the Rhino rack ones…Quote:
Originally Posted by Redtail
Piece of Galvanised bar from the big Green Shed, a few nuts and bolts and the bolts/blocks from the rhino rack shovel holder
https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery...68e486181a.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery...d129c5d8af.jpg