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Using a new battery tester, I discovered BOTH my batteries are stuffed. Together, they can keep the car happy enough, but longer start times, and running a fridge whilst camping over the weekend highlighted they needed looking at.
Pretty disappointing - the main Bosch battery lasted just over 2 years, the SSB aux almost one year. I've got to get better at keeping receipts...
Offer it here, someone will buy it [emoji41]Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster
Batteries usually have date of manufacture marked on them and often have the warranty period printed on the label. I took a stuffed battery back to the shop i bought it from after a year, without a receipt, and they replaced no problem. Wasn't a Bosch or SSB, but worth a try :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by veebs
I'm not great with receipts, but I always keep the battery receipt in the glove box. Just tuck it in the back of the manual and then at least I know it's there.Quote:
Originally Posted by veebs
All receipts that “matter” to me, eg warranty claims etc…
I now do one of 2 things:
- Take a photo and store in a folder
Or
- Scan and save to same folder
That way:
- They don’t fade
- I don’t lose them
- I can search by file name for the specific one
It’s proven very effective.
How true! Just sourcing a new cranking and aux battery - and leaning towards the SSB for both.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
I'm interested:
- if you replace your SSB under warranty and want to offload it [tonguewink]
- if you would still recommend the SSB batteries. My last cranking battery was a Varta, and I think lasted about 6yrs (in conjunction with the aux).
I'm in the Perth Hills (Glen Forrest), so Goodchilds is a bit of a drive for me. I'm just waiting for them to come back with price & lead time for the SS88Ti, as they don't have any on hand.
Rob
I also back that folder up - but then again that's probably my OCD...Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
Oil change time. I also did a flush with the CEM Flushing Oil Concentrate. Not because it needed it, but more because I had it floating around and thought "why not"?
I weighed the oil in and out to see how accurate it might be to do that. To attempt repeatability I ran the car until the oil was at 95C both times, didn't move it off the stands and drained it until there was a slow but consistent "drop drop drop" at the end of the drain.
The initial drain, and flush drain were both done without touching the filter. I then did the filter and measured that separately.
I'll quote volume in Litres, but that's calculated from a specified density of 0.857kg/L from the Penrite Data sheet. Given I emptied a freshly opened 5L bottle into the car, and the weight reduction of the container was 4285g, I was happy that the density figure was close enough.
Weighing was done accounting for the weight of the bottle/pan +/- 5g.
I only dropped 4.1L out of the sump (filter excluded), so I need to watch that burn rate a bit more carefully!
I put in 5.0L of Penrite HPR10-Diesel (4285g)
I also put in 80 ml of FOC.
I then drained 5.033L of total fluid (4314g) So I didn't get it all out but was "close enough for Perth".
After I'd let the sump drain thoroughly I emptied the filter and got another 0.403L of oil (346g). Undo filter, wait 10 mins and drop the sump.
That means the old oil was down to 4.5L at 10,000km.
The scale I was using is calibrated to +/- 5g and I freshly calibrated it with a 10kg +/- 1g test mass before I started.
Given the oil film in the engine and drain pan, I'm pretty happy with the in/out as a repeatable test and I now know how much the filter housing actually holds.
tldr; changed the oil and did a flush.
My routine for an oil change is use the iiD to add the maximum possible offset for the suspension, raise to offroad height (+ offset) and pop some stands under the chassis. That gives me enough height to get the belly pan off and drain the sump.
Yesterday I thought I might lower the car onto the stands to see if it was going to raise to extended height. It didn't, but it did cause a suspension fault I couldn't clear C1A00-54 (AF) Control module - System programming failure - missing calibration, and the red suspension light on the dash.
It appeared for all intents and purposes the suspension was working, although I could only change height with the GAP. Any attempt to use the lever in the console was just met with a "bong". Anyway, went out on an errand. When I got where I was going I tried to raise the car and was met with the "Will raise when cooled". Did what I needed to do and drive home again to find a cooking compressor again.
I stopped to have a fiddle and tried resetting the offsets, re-flashing the ECU with the compressor firmware and generally fiddling around with whatever I could find. I had used test mode earlier to try and raise the front manually with a valve actuation, so I tried that. It worked, but the fault always came back immediately. Last ditch was to select tight tolerance mode and then de-select it. That sorted the problem. So it looks like something I did had put the car into tight tolerance mode, and the longer drive in that mode had worked the suspension into all its safety limits.
The reservoir was well below 10 bar, and that took several cycles of the compressor to charge it back up.
A five night jaunt from Perth to Denmark (WA, lol) in the Discos with our six kids between us. Me in my 352,000km D4 and my partner in her 2016 Disco Sport. 1500km without drama.
Makes a change [emoji1787]