TDV6 Very Slow To Get to Operating Temperature
The winter has hit Tassie and it appears my Thermostat is stuck open. The Workshop Manual is indicating you can exchange the Thermostat without changing the housing. I cannot locate a Part Number for the Thermostat only which is installed in the housing LR009562. Is it a viable option to just replace the Thermostat and has anyone have a Part Number for it?
What happened to your D3/D4 today?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
DiscoJeffster
I can confirm it is possible and I have done it. I don’t remember much as it was seven years ago, but looking through my email I have the same part number purchased and I know I replaced it into the same housing, but that was at seven years of age. It’s now had its 14th birthday.
There must be a difference with the 3.0 maybe my mistake as on the 2.7 it sits independently in the tangle of radiator hoses with about 5 hose connections on it. You replace the whole unit.
I’ve also recently bought the full hose set (and new. radiator) which comes with new thermostat, temp sensor and top radiator hose I had previously replaced the thermostat only as a seperate part.
Like Graeme plastic seems to be giving up left right and centre. I recently bumped the return hose to the bottle which snapped off at the radiator fortunately leaving about 1cm of barb which is holding the fort currently. My temp sensor is restrained with a cable tie due to the locking mechanism cracking.
The trickiest part of the job is dealing with the pressure clamps where one of those extension removal gizmos is incredibly helpful.
Drivers Door Latch Actuator/Mechanism
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ChookD2
So Saturday I changed the drivers door latch mechanism (what a pain in the arse job) because it was starting to **** me off with not recognising the door was shut or the interior light would come on and "drivers door open" would appear on the dash as I was driving along. Only took me 4 hours including a short lunch break + an extra pair of hands and lots of swear words.
Today when I get home from work today I close the door and hit the button to lock and BEEP....??? :censored::censored: Opened and close the door 3 times with same result so resorted to the old SLAM IT shut to get it to lock.
What else could be wrong I really don't want to pull that apart again. The door alignment appears to be good.
Anyone want to buy a D3?
So to follow up on this post. This situation just got worse by the day. No it wasn't a genuine part, my mistake.
Anyway, a friend of my daughter put me on to this video on youtoob https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=izr2tYdf9co
Which lead to this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fk_vwrZCjb8
So on Saturday I tried the first option but could not get screw drivers in there and to be honest couldn't really see in there adequately. What I did see though was the cable from the inner door handle come off when actuator slipped down in side the door. You know what that meant. Yep, pull the door apart again. I've become quite good at this now.
Once I had retrieved the actuator from the door I looked closely at the mechanism in question (see videos) and the piece that required bending was not in contact with the plastic piece at all. Not even sure it is supposed to be. However, I bent it to make contact and applied some white lithium grease to aid in any friction issues that may arise.
Before reinstalling I sat with the actuator a screw driver and the key for some time activating the lock (as if the door had been closed) then locking with the key. Unlocking with key then activating actuator to simulate opening the door. Over and over and over with no negative issues.
At various stages of reassembly I continued to test and retest to ensure this was working as it should, again, without any issues.
The door has now been opened and closed on numerous occasions (normally without the need to slam it) and locking and unlocking has been normal.
So, before you splurge on a new door latch maybe give this ago. I'll report back later on how this is going.
