 Super Moderator
					
					
						Super ModeratorFinally got around to fitting the new belt and idlers. I could not for the life of me get the new belt on even with the tensioner pushed to its limits. I ended up having to take the idler off, put the belt on then pull the tensioner and pop the idler back in. That was super low effort, so next time that's the way I'll do it.
It's been sitting 6 and a half weeks. The battery had enough oomph to start it but only really just. It was also on the bump stops. I'm pretty sure I need to rebuild the rear valve block.
MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						The winter has hit Tassie and it appears my Thermostat is stuck open. The Workshop Manual is indicating you can exchange the Thermostat without changing the housing. I cannot locate a Part Number for the Thermostat only which is installed in the housing LR009562. Is it a viable option to just replace the Thermostat and has anyone have a Part Number for it?
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Maybe someone can remove the confusion. The Discovery 4 workshop manual has clear images depicting that the thermostat can be removed from its housing on a TDV6 3.0 Diesel. I have been advised that the housing is a sealed unit and the thermostat can not be exchanged, even more confusing is that listed for sale is the stand alone thermostat Gates Part Number TH4582G1 which is li stated as being correct for this model and year vehicle.
Appreciate if an owner of this vehicle who has exchanged the thermostat can confirm that the Workshop Manual is correct prior to me commencing to dismantle.
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						You might want to take the opportunity to replace the 10yo plastic housing which could be so brittle that it shatters if you try to dismantle it. I recently decided to replace all the cooling system hoses and plastic fittings on my 12yo L322 during a radiator replacement and I was very pleased that I did as several fittings broke during removal.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
 TopicToaster
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						TopicToaster
					
					
						SubscriberI can confirm it is possible and I have done it. I don’t remember much as it was seven years ago, but looking through my email I have the same part number purchased and I know I replaced it into the same housing, but that was at seven years of age. It’s now had its 14th birthday.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
There must be a difference with the 3.0 maybe my mistake as on the 2.7 it sits independently in the tangle of radiator hoses with about 5 hose connections on it. You replace the whole unit.
I’ve also recently bought the full hose set (and new. radiator) which comes with new thermostat, temp sensor and top radiator hose I had previously replaced the thermostat only as a seperate part.
Like Graeme plastic seems to be giving up left right and centre. I recently bumped the return hose to the bottle which snapped off at the radiator fortunately leaving about 1cm of barb which is holding the fort currently. My temp sensor is restrained with a cable tie due to the locking mechanism cracking.
The trickiest part of the job is dealing with the pressure clamps where one of those extension removal gizmos is incredibly helpful.
 TopicToaster
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						TopicToaster
					
					
						SubscriberSo to follow up on this post. This situation just got worse by the day. No it wasn't a genuine part, my mistake.
Anyway, a friend of my daughter put me on to this video on youtoob https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=izr2tYdf9co
Which lead to this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fk_vwrZCjb8
So on Saturday I tried the first option but could not get screw drivers in there and to be honest couldn't really see in there adequately. What I did see though was the cable from the inner door handle come off when actuator slipped down in side the door. You know what that meant. Yep, pull the door apart again. I've become quite good at this now.
Once I had retrieved the actuator from the door I looked closely at the mechanism in question (see videos) and the piece that required bending was not in contact with the plastic piece at all. Not even sure it is supposed to be. However, I bent it to make contact and applied some white lithium grease to aid in any friction issues that may arise.
Before reinstalling I sat with the actuator a screw driver and the key for some time activating the lock (as if the door had been closed) then locking with the key. Unlocking with key then activating actuator to simulate opening the door. Over and over and over with no negative issues.
At various stages of reassembly I continued to test and retest to ensure this was working as it should, again, without any issues.
The door has now been opened and closed on numerous occasions (normally without the need to slam it) and locking and unlocking has been normal.
So, before you splurge on a new door latch maybe give this ago. I'll report back later on how this is going.
There is no eraser on the pencil of life.
Now - Not a Land Rover (2018 Dmax)
Was - 2008 D3 SE 4.0l V6
Was - 2000 D2 TD5 with much fruit.
Ray
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