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Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

  1. #5441
    BradC is online now Super Moderator
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    Finally got around to fitting the new belt and idlers. I could not for the life of me get the new belt on even with the tensioner pushed to its limits. I ended up having to take the idler off, put the belt on then pull the tensioner and pop the idler back in. That was super low effort, so next time that's the way I'll do it.

    It's been sitting 6 and a half weeks. The battery had enough oomph to start it but only really just. It was also on the bump stops. I'm pretty sure I need to rebuild the rear valve block.
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

  2. #5442
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    I looked at my D3 in the driveway today. It's been there since the tensioner went, and I've been driving dads LC200. After a weekend away with ~800KM on the clock it's pushed me to get the D3 going. The 200 is noisy and uncomfortable. Moreso as he had a "GVM Upgrade" done on it, so the back bounces like a pogo stick and the headlights point at the ground.

    I can imagine at 80 with a 3T van on the back it's probably tolerable, but bare at 110 it's just bloody uncomfortable and tiring to drive.
    Mine isn't D3 related.. but I had a trailer on the D2 the other day with some weight so I inflated the helper airbags. I haven't used them for ages and promptly forgot. I was out in it yesterday and couldn't work out what was wrong..
    ​JayTee

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    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
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  3. #5443
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    TDV6 Very Slow To Get to Operating Temperature

    The winter has hit Tassie and it appears my Thermostat is stuck open. The Workshop Manual is indicating you can exchange the Thermostat without changing the housing. I cannot locate a Part Number for the Thermostat only which is installed in the housing LR009562. Is it a viable option to just replace the Thermostat and has anyone have a Part Number for it?

  4. #5444
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gravy View Post
    The winter has hit Tassie and it appears my Thermostat is stuck open. The Workshop Manual is indicating you can exchange the Thermostat without changing the housing. I cannot locate a Part Number for the Thermostat only which is installed in the housing LR009562. Is it a viable option to just replace the Thermostat and has anyone have a Part Number for it?
    Thermostat is a big white blob at the bottom of the radiator accessible from below part of the radiator hose bundle. Sold separately.

  5. #5445
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    Confusing Info

    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    Thermostat is a big white blob at the bottom of the radiator accessible from below part of the radiator hose bundle. Sold separately.
    Maybe someone can remove the confusion. The Discovery 4 workshop manual has clear images depicting that the thermostat can be removed from its housing on a TDV6 3.0 Diesel. I have been advised that the housing is a sealed unit and the thermostat can not be exchanged, even more confusing is that listed for sale is the stand alone thermostat Gates Part Number TH4582G1 which is li stated as being correct for this model and year vehicle.

    Appreciate if an owner of this vehicle who has exchanged the thermostat can confirm that the Workshop Manual is correct prior to me commencing to dismantle.

  6. #5446
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    You might want to take the opportunity to replace the 10yo plastic housing which could be so brittle that it shatters if you try to dismantle it. I recently decided to replace all the cooling system hoses and plastic fittings on my 12yo L322 during a radiator replacement and I was very pleased that I did as several fittings broke during removal.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
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  7. #5447
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gravy View Post
    Maybe someone can remove the confusion. The Discovery 4 workshop manual has clear images depicting that the thermostat can be removed from its housing on a TDV6 3.0 Diesel. I have been advised that the housing is a sealed unit and the thermostat can not be exchanged, even more confusing is that listed for sale is the stand alone thermostat Gates Part Number TH4582G1 which is li stated as being correct for this model and year vehicle.

    Appreciate if an owner of this vehicle who has exchanged the thermostat can confirm that the Workshop Manual is correct prior to me commencing to dismantle.
    I can confirm it is possible and I have done it. I don’t remember much as it was seven years ago, but looking through my email I have the same part number purchased and I know I replaced it into the same housing, but that was at seven years of age. It’s now had its 14th birthday.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  8. #5448
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    What happened to your D3/D4 today?

    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    I can confirm it is possible and I have done it. I don’t remember much as it was seven years ago, but looking through my email I have the same part number purchased and I know I replaced it into the same housing, but that was at seven years of age. It’s now had its 14th birthday.
    There must be a difference with the 3.0 maybe my mistake as on the 2.7 it sits independently in the tangle of radiator hoses with about 5 hose connections on it. You replace the whole unit.

    I’ve also recently bought the full hose set (and new. radiator) which comes with new thermostat, temp sensor and top radiator hose I had previously replaced the thermostat only as a seperate part.

    Like Graeme plastic seems to be giving up left right and centre. I recently bumped the return hose to the bottle which snapped off at the radiator fortunately leaving about 1cm of barb which is holding the fort currently. My temp sensor is restrained with a cable tie due to the locking mechanism cracking.

    The trickiest part of the job is dealing with the pressure clamps where one of those extension removal gizmos is incredibly helpful.

  9. #5449
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    There must be a difference with the 3.0 maybe my mistake as on the 2.7 it sits independently in the tangle of radiator hoses with about 5 hose connections on it. You replace the whole unit.

    I’ve also recently bought the full hose set (and new. radiator) which comes with new thermostat, temp sensor and top radiator hose I had previously replaced the thermostat only as a seperate part.

    Like Graeme plastic seems to be giving up left right and centre. I recently bumped the return hose to the bottle which snapped off fortunately leaving about 1cm of barb which is holding the fort currently. My temp sensor is restrained with a cable tie due to the locking mechanism cracking.

    The trickiest part of the job is dealing with the pressure clamps where one of those extension removal gizmos is incredibly helpful.
    Yes, they are different though no less a PITA to remove. And yes, hose clamp cable thing always comes in handy
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  10. #5450
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    Drivers Door Latch Actuator/Mechanism

    Quote Originally Posted by ChookD2 View Post
    So Saturday I changed the drivers door latch mechanism (what a pain in the arse job) because it was starting to **** me off with not recognising the door was shut or the interior light would come on and "drivers door open" would appear on the dash as I was driving along. Only took me 4 hours including a short lunch break + an extra pair of hands and lots of swear words.

    Today when I get home from work today I close the door and hit the button to lock and BEEP....??? Opened and close the door 3 times with same result so resorted to the old SLAM IT shut to get it to lock.

    What else could be wrong I really don't want to pull that apart again. The door alignment appears to be good.

    Anyone want to buy a D3?
    So to follow up on this post. This situation just got worse by the day. No it wasn't a genuine part, my mistake.

    Anyway, a friend of my daughter put me on to this video on youtoob https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=izr2tYdf9co

    Which lead to this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fk_vwrZCjb8

    So on Saturday I tried the first option but could not get screw drivers in there and to be honest couldn't really see in there adequately. What I did see though was the cable from the inner door handle come off when actuator slipped down in side the door. You know what that meant. Yep, pull the door apart again. I've become quite good at this now.

    Once I had retrieved the actuator from the door I looked closely at the mechanism in question (see videos) and the piece that required bending was not in contact with the plastic piece at all. Not even sure it is supposed to be. However, I bent it to make contact and applied some white lithium grease to aid in any friction issues that may arise.

    Before reinstalling I sat with the actuator a screw driver and the key for some time activating the lock (as if the door had been closed) then locking with the key. Unlocking with key then activating actuator to simulate opening the door. Over and over and over with no negative issues.

    At various stages of reassembly I continued to test and retest to ensure this was working as it should, again, without any issues.

    The door has now been opened and closed on numerous occasions (normally without the need to slam it) and locking and unlocking has been normal.

    So, before you splurge on a new door latch maybe give this ago. I'll report back later on how this is going.
    There is no eraser on the pencil of life.

    Now - Not a Land Rover (2018 Dmax)
    Was - 2008 D3 SE 4.0l V6
    Was - 2000 D2 TD5 with much fruit.

    Ray

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