What happened to your D3/D4 today?

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Originally Posted by DieselLSE

3) when I went to ARB I asked them about that exact modification. I was going to modify an air suspension tank for the drivers side. They told me that the major cause of all their burnt out compressor was fitting a tank thats to large. I’m using a single air locker high output compressor (cmk12 maybe?) and they said that it was a bad idea even if I had the large dual output compressor. I decided against it. Have you had other advice?

That's interesting. Thanks. I'd wondered about that despite the ARB twin compressors I have being rated at 100% duty cycle. As I'd only ever be using the system on a long trip and I have the switch next to the steering wheel, I plan on running the compressor for 30 seconds at a time as I was driving along. A bigger concern is moisture being trapped in the air reservoir. I have an ARB manifold installed in an accessible spot in the above mentioned compartment. I was planning on installing a water trap/filter on the input to the manifold and ducting a two way pipe to the air reservoir.

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I once saw a guy using a compressor that worked off the fan belt and he then feed the line into his bull bar and that acted as his storage tank. Good idea I thought at the time.

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Originally Posted by rocket rod

I once saw a guy using a compressor that worked off the fan belt and he then feed the line into his bull bar and that acted as his storage tank. Good idea I thought at the time.

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Been there done that eg 40 series cruiser. Fitted an old AC pump plumbed into a roll cage. D1 disco. ..AC pump plumbed into an old fire extinguisher under floor above diff..which pressurised the diffs..bellhousing and distributer cap on demand...hence it could swim under water 🤤

If you are going to have a large air tank buy a compressor with a 100% duty cycle and there will be no problems. Some of the air suspension conversion mobs have these compressors. These compressors can be run all day as long as they have reasonable ventilation.
The are good for cars with leaky suspension .

Ian
Bittern

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Originally Posted by INter674

Been there done that eg 40 series cruiser. Fitted an old AC pump plumbed into a roll cage. D1 disco. ..AC pump plumbed into an old fire extinguisher under floor above diff..which pressurised the diffs..bellhousing and distributer cap on demand...hence it could swim under water [emoji1786]

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Did the same on the D1. Also had it into the winch.

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Originally Posted by INter674

Good on you Ripco... you don't get me very often...so enjoy🙄

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That’s the “need it now” tax.

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Originally Posted by BradC

That’s the “need it now” tax.

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Yes...and the "now" being the wife😍

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Originally Posted by DieselLSE

I'd long wanted to remove the rear right panel insert as it served no useful purpose and I could always use an extra hidy hole. This turned out to be quite easy as the panel is just an insert which can be popped out

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Some well thought out and executed mods, nice work. In regards to the factory rear right panel, once removed can it easily be replaced? I can’t quiet see on mine how the panel is fixed, I separated a couple of the fixing points and they appeared to break off rather than unclip. I stopped at that point. Could you possibly post a picture of the fixing points.

Thanks
Dean

Thanks Dean,

You'll probably need to remove the Rear Panel in order to neatly pop out the plastic "rivets". Not sure what this type of melted plastic fixing is called. I suppose you could try to remove the insert in situ as you've started to do, particularly now that you can see how it's fixed.

The panel simply has holes for the insert. The old phone is for emergency use in case I drown the smart phone!

Attachment 160066

The insert has posts. I presume on assembly the insert is mated to the panel and each protruding post is melted over the hole to secure it in place. I found that each post end either popped off or popped back through the hole.

Attachment 160067Attachment 160069

I suppose the insert could be replaced, but I don't think this type of assembly is meant to be removable. And you'd certainly need to remove the Rear Panel to re-weld the posts. If you want a removable panel, it would be easier to make up a new flat one. The old panel makes a great template as the mating parts are flat.

[QUOTE=DieselLSE;2993055]

Many thanks for the pictures and extra info on the rear panel. It’s a shame it wasn’t designed with regular trim clips, your replacement panel is an excellent solution though and a great use of the space
Cheers
Dean

Gave the D3 a minor service on the weekend - oil and filters. Discovered one of the air filter box screws had been over tightened and stripped from a previous service. Guess it is easier for the tech to pretend it did not happen.

Also replaced the Coolant Expansion Tank.

I definitely found removing the LHS headlight assembly made access to the lower expansion tank hose much easier. Once you free up the expansion tank you can move it aside and get your arm straight through to the lower hose clamp. I still used a remote flexible hose clamp plier but you get direct access from where the headlight assembly was.

I also removed the fan shroud and air intake pipe work to get more access from the top. Fortunately I put a plastic lid on top of the exposed lower air intake pipe work as I did spill coolant which would have gone into the air intake if it was not covered.