Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 27

Thread: Brake smell on first startup

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Myrtleford
    Posts
    17
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE View Post
    I'm willing to bet it smells like a mixture between hot brakes and that characteristic acrid diesel exhaust smell you get when first starting up, and stronger around the front of the car...

    I believe it would be the EGR valves leaking where the alu pipes flange off the valve and head up towards the manifold. EGRs located down the side of the engine. Both sides. Check with a torch for soot build up on top of the EGR.


    Reason for no smell would be that valves were closed fully on last startup.

    Mine did the same, could smell exhaust/hot brakes after coming home. Relatively easy to fix, unbolt the ear pipes from the manifold and retaining clips, then from the EGR valve itself, clean up the flange faces and apply some high temp gasket maker and refit. Need small hands and a 10mm socket with a long extension, and don't drop the flange bolt in between the valve and engine, don't want to go there (again)....

    Whilst there, you can actuate the egr rod with your finger, the rod is a black plastic one connected to a dash pot thats connected to a vac line. It should move freely. If not, when the return pipe is off you can get a hooked scraper in there and scrape away the carbon build up. I also spray some throttle body cleaner in there.
    Sounds plausible, will look on Thursday. Tomorrow is supposed to be cold and wet. Brake smell on first startup

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Myrtleford
    Posts
    17
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks Eric.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW SW Slopes
    Posts
    12,030
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Check the coolant level in case the smell is from burnt coolant that has leaked from the coolant outlet housing that splits before bursting open and the coolant has leaked onto the exhaust cross-over pipe.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    1,251
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    Check the coolant level in case the smell is from burnt coolant that has leaked from the coolant outlet housing that splits before bursting open and the coolant has leaked onto the exhaust cross-over pipe.
    Good point..our SC had a burnt smell due to red coolant leaking out the water pump onto the v and then being heated. It was v noticeable first thing in the morning.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    110
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Endorsing "you sure it's brakes?"

    Quote Originally Posted by INter674 View Post
    Good point..our SC had a burnt smell due to red coolant leaking out the water pump onto the v and then being heated. It was v noticeable first thing in the morning.
    Apart from 'cooked' I'm not sure I'd know a 'brake smell' but (not a Landie) my 2004 Holden Astra was of a species notorious for weak water pumps. My nose was vital - I'd have killed the motor if I'd not noticed; it was replaced under warranty twice, the second time with a 'suitable for Australian summers' upgrade, and it ran perfectly after that. (A properly maintained, 1.8L manual Astra was a damn good car, actually, while a poorly maintained 1.6L auto was a dog.)

    Even if the initial post is an "I was right, it is the brakes!" - I still use my nose whenever I lift the bonnet on any car, usually for nothing more than windscreen washer. And I'd recommend taking 'a good nose' along for any second-hand purchase of any car whatsoever.

    One more trick: after a medium drive (40 k or so) park the car over some (weighted down) butcher's paper and 12-24 hours later, check the drips.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW SW Slopes
    Posts
    12,030
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The reason why I suggested coolant is because the 2.7 & 3.0 water outlet housing is renowned for splitting at its seams, leaking a small amount of coolant for some time before suddenly splitting apart often with catastrophic results for the engine, unlike a water pump seal which can leak quite badly but usually getting worse incrementally rather than suddenly.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Myrtleford
    Posts
    17
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    The reason why I suggested coolant is because the 2.7 & 3.0 water outlet housing is renowned for splitting at its seams, leaking a small amount of coolant for some time before suddenly splitting apart often with catastrophic results for the engine, unlike a water pump seal which can leak quite badly but usually getting worse incrementally rather than suddenly.
    I had the housing changed for an Aluminium one in December.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW SW Slopes
    Posts
    12,030
    Total Downloaded
    0
    An expensive item but you know that you're not risking an engine.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Myrtleford
    Posts
    17
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Checked under the engine cover today and noticed oil under the air inlet to the throttle. Also noticed that the air inlet box was misaligned to the throttle body. This seemed to be the source of the oil and possibly the smell (the fan probably blows accumulated oil smell back through the ventilation) Took inlet off and re-aligned. Noted that the rubber seal is very loose, so not sure if this will fix the problem.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    4,335
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Rhubarb13 View Post
    Checked under the engine cover today and noticed oil under the air inlet to the throttle. Also noticed that the air inlet box was misaligned to the throttle body. This seemed to be the source of the oil and possibly the smell (the fan probably blows accumulated oil smell back through the ventilation) Took inlet off and re-aligned. Noted that the rubber seal is very loose, so not sure if this will fix the problem.
    If yours is like mine and others you’ll need a new seal and inlet section as they fail and leak.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!