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Thread: Replacing cranking and yellow top battery with Lithium's?

  1. #1
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    Replacing cranking and yellow top battery with Lithium's?

    Background.

    The AGM's in my caravan are getting down and looking at replacing them with Lithiums. When researching, I came across DCS batteries which seem pretty good quality and Australian made.

    They are selling cranking and dual battery systems for vehicles as well. Some reviews that the system seems to work well. As I'm coming up to 7 years old on my original OEM battery and 5 years on the Traxide, Yellow top, just getting info about swapping both out for Lithium.

    If the D4 is not run for a few days I get the low battery message when opening the car, but after 7 years am thinking I don't want to push it and have the main cranking battery cark it while I'm in the bush somewhere.

    DCS on one of their webpages shows 2 x 75 Ah Lithium installed in a D4. However, this is with a Redarc or Victron isolator system I think which is what DCS flog off.

    So 2 questions, mainly.

    1) Has anyone done this, ie, replace the OEM or traxide battery with Lithiums? Any reviews here about that?
    2) How would 2 appropriate size batteries go with the Traxide system. DCS claim pretty much "drop in" but am wary about this. Any comment from Tim?

    Reason for considering this- Batteries are getting on and I'll end up saving about 40kg of weight which is not to be sneezed at.

    Link to DCS page showing dual system in D4 including cranking battery.

    Thanks
    Trevor
    Ultimate DCS 12V 200Ah Dual Battery Setup (Lithium)
    2014 SDV6 SE, Fuji White, ARB bar, Fyrlyt 5000, Pioneer Platform, Traxide D4-5S, Maxxis 980 Bravo, GOE Compressor Plate, ICom-450 UHF, Red Arc Tow Pro.
    Elite Murray 2 Caravan 24'4" Tare-2917kg, ATM-3500kg

  2. #2
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    Replacing cranking and yellow top battery with Lithium's?

    I’ll find a link and post for you...it’s a review on the DCS, think it’s an under bonnet install as well.

    I screen shot this From the video



    Other than that I recon I know which way this thread will go.

    I just switched from AGM to Lithium for our AUX, it’d be a nice brainer to upgrade your van batteries.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by W&KO View Post
    I’ll find a link and post for you...it’s a review on the DCS, think it’s an under bonnet install as well.


    Other than that I recon I know which way this thread will go.

    I just switched from AGM to Lithium for our AUX, it’d be a nice brainer to upgrade your van batteries.
    Does this mean get out the popcorn? I'm just trying to get facts.
    2014 SDV6 SE, Fuji White, ARB bar, Fyrlyt 5000, Pioneer Platform, Traxide D4-5S, Maxxis 980 Bravo, GOE Compressor Plate, ICom-450 UHF, Red Arc Tow Pro.
    Elite Murray 2 Caravan 24'4" Tare-2917kg, ATM-3500kg

  4. #4
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    I thought about replacing both cranking and auxiliary batteries with DCS lithium’s. But to be economical due to their price, you need them to last at least 3 times longer than lead acid/AGM. There isn’t any data on whether they will last 10+ years under bonnet, which is one of the harshest environments for batteries. Ended up putting a lead acid as a cranking battery and 2x 100A/h DCS lithium’s behind the second row of seats. Can’t fault them as auxiliary batteries.
    MY08 TDV6 D3 Zermatt Silver, B.A.S ECU Remap, ARB Bar, 12K Kingone Winch, 2x100Ah LiFePo4 Auxiliary Power, Safari Snorkel, Baja Rack Roof Rack, Brown Davis Aux. Tank, RWC, Front Runner Rear Ladder, Drifta Drawers, Doran TPMS, LLAMS, GAP IID BT.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Briar View Post
    Does this mean get out the popcorn? I'm just trying to get facts.
    Well let’s hope the facts don’t get in the way of a good story...hang we need the old saying reversed

    There probably hasn’t been to many punter who have actually tried and tested a lithium under the in real conditions

    Anyways....watch this video it give a view from somebody that has actually run one under the bonnet.

    This LiFePo4 Starter Battery Changed How I Travel! Lithium Under Bonnet Setup - 12 Month Review - YouTube

  6. #6
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    Hi Brian and first off, there is no such thing as an Australian made lithium battery.

    They bring in a battery and put their sticker on it, not exactly what I would call Australian made.

    Next, this crap that lithium batteries are “drop-in” replacements for lead acid batteries is nothing more than advertising hype, being used by a lot of lithium battery sellers.

    Now you could use one of my DT90 or USI-160 isolators and set then to Storage Mode, and they would do the same job as their VSR.

    But a small insignificant detail the seller neglects to point out is that at 12.7v, the cut-out voltage of their VSR ( and my DT90 or USI-160 isolators when set to Storage Mode ) means BOTH BATTERIES will have less that 5% capacity left in them when the isolator turns off.

    This is because lithium batteries have a constant discharge voltage of around 13.1v to 13.3v, right up until the final stage of their discharge at around 95% of their capacity.

    At this point the voltage drops rapidly and so by the time the isolator turns off, you would be very lucky to have much more that one or two amperes left in the cranking battery.

    With a lithium battery that low, the current needed to start a motor would pull the voltage down even further, and I would not give you much chance of starting a motor on a cold morning in that situation.

    There is another potentially expensive problem when lithium batteries are used as cranking batteries.

    When a battery, be it lead acid or lithium, is connect to an alternator, it suppresses the high voltage spikes all alternators create while running.

    These spikes can be as high as 60v, and that sort of voltage spike will easily damage or destroy your vehicles electronics.

    When a lead acid battery fails, it is still connected to the cranking battery and will continue to act as a massive voltage spike suppressor.

    When lithium batteries fail, they go OPEN CIRCUIT, and no longer offer any form of voltage spike suppression.

    The perceived advantages of using a lithium battery as a cranking battery seem quite feasible. You save weight, space and would supposedly give a longer lifespan.

    BUT with these perceived advantages, yet not one single vehicle manufacturer is using them, and even hybrid vehicles, which are powered by lithium batteries, have a bad acid battery as the cranking battery for starting the motors used to charge the lithium batteries while on the move.


    This is a case of “buyer beware”

  7. #7
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    Hi again Brian, something I have not been able to get any info on, either here or from Europe, is how will your Disco’s BMS ( battery Management System ) react to having a higher voltage cranking battery fitted?

    At this stage, there is no way to alter or even turn off the Land Rover BMS, and it reacts to the voltage level and current passing through the cranking battery’s negative cable.


    The vehicles where these systems are being promoted, like Toyotas ( which do not have a BMS ) and Nissans ( where the smart alternator can be disabled ), this would not be an issue.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi again Brian, something I have not been able to get any info on, either here or from Europe, is how will your Disco’s BMS ( battery Management System ) react to having a higher voltage cranking battery fitted?

    At this stage, there is no way to alter or even turn off the Land Rover BMS, and it reacts to the voltage level and current passing through the cranking battery’s negative cable.


    The vehicles where these systems are being promoted, like Toyotas ( which do not have a BMS ) and Nissans ( where the smart alternator can be disabled ), this would not be an issue.
    Hi Tim

    When you say hi "Brian" are you meaning me??

    My handle here is "Briar" as that's the name of my property. My actual name is Trevor, so just unsure whether you meant me to respond.
    2014 SDV6 SE, Fuji White, ARB bar, Fyrlyt 5000, Pioneer Platform, Traxide D4-5S, Maxxis 980 Bravo, GOE Compressor Plate, ICom-450 UHF, Red Arc Tow Pro.
    Elite Murray 2 Caravan 24'4" Tare-2917kg, ATM-3500kg

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi again Brian, something I have not been able to get any info on, either here or from Europe, is how will your Disco’s BMS ( battery Management System ) react to having a higher voltage cranking battery fitted?

    At this stage, there is no way to alter or even turn off the Land Rover BMS, and it reacts to the voltage level and current passing through the cranking battery’s negative cable.


    The vehicles where these systems are being promoted, like Toyotas ( which do not have a BMS ) and Nissans ( where the smart alternator can be disabled ), this would not be an issue.
    I appreciate your advice. I may have to keep D4 with the same batteries. Not an issue. My caravan I'll end up going Lithium but may have to add a DC to DC charger inbetween which I currently don't need with the vans AGM's.
    2014 SDV6 SE, Fuji White, ARB bar, Fyrlyt 5000, Pioneer Platform, Traxide D4-5S, Maxxis 980 Bravo, GOE Compressor Plate, ICom-450 UHF, Red Arc Tow Pro.
    Elite Murray 2 Caravan 24'4" Tare-2917kg, ATM-3500kg

  10. #10
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    Your caravan is a different story, Briar, you will need to look at both the amount of use you expect to do with your caravan, and what you want to power while using your caravan.


    If the van is going to get known long term usage, then lithiums are probably the way to go.


    BUT, as shown in W&KO’s chart, you need to do a lot of research before you buy, not just the batteries, but the DC/DC gear, and you will need DC/DC gear of some form.


    With your Disco, so far I have not come across a single lithium battery setup that can compete with one of my systems, when all the factors are taken into account, especially performance vs cost.


    So you already have the best setup.


    PS sorry about the handle misread!

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