Thread: 2.7TD Engine oil cooler replacement

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

A link would be great pretty please if you’ve done the homework. Thanks

Hey mate, I bought these, I have not looked at the disco yet for sizing but.

Car Auto Fuel Line Hose Quick Release Connector Automotive Disconnect Tool A | eBay

Originally Posted by Ralph1Malph

Did this crappy job yesterday!
All went according to plan except I have a bunch of brittle connectors and a broken fuel QD.

The connectors are an easy fix, I'll buy some harness wrap and wrap them. Mainly it was the connector shells so, the conductors are ok.

The fuel QD is a bugger. The blue lock tab just crumbled. It was the first one I disconnected as it's the front one on the oil cooler!
Next to no chance getting one today, being Sunday!
Oh well. It's a waiting game now.

Cheers
RJ

I ended up ringing around, luckily, an Indy here in Brisbane had the entire fuel line for the princely sum of $100!
Had I been willing to wait, they're about £30-40 plus shipping.
Lucky score and I'm quite happy to replace the whole thing.
1354290.jpg

All done now.
I did note that flushing and cleaning the cooling system is not as easy as told.
I decided to flush 6-7 times before I was comfy that there was little trace of the coolant flush compound.
That said, removing the bottom hose from the thermostat, I'm pretty sure mainly drains the radiator, not the block, so took to temp each time to circulate.

I also gave her an oil change and was pleased to note that the oil was not visibly contaminated with coolant, although there was a tablespoon or so had sunk to the sump plug.
I reckon that's about the amount as would have spilt done the oil galleries when removing the cooler.

Regards the connectors and loom, I used split tube for a some and heat resistant tape for the rest. The broken or brittle connectors were gently reconnected and then taped together for another day.


Anyhoo, PITA job, but she goes quite well now!

Cheers
RJ

Hi shane do you have torque settings for engine oil cooler?

Originally Posted by jiumble

Hi shane do you have torque settings for engine oil cooler?

10 Nm or 7 ft lbs

Just giving Shane’s great thread a bump. 3/4s of the way through replacing the oil cooler and the coolant manifold.

Had to watch part 2 about 6 times before I found the right combination of pushing, twisting, and pulling to get the oil separator out.

In refitting the oil separator this was the exact position I was able to get it back in. With a bit of pushing the leg just slides over the intake manifold inlet.

A couple of small differences with how I removed the oil separator compared to Shane’s video.

I did remove the glow plug electrical connectors and harness before removing the oil separator. If you partially lift up the separator you can get access to the glow plug connectors - just use a straightened coat hanger wire with a small hook on the end and you can get under the plugs and pop them up - start at one end and then lift at each glow plug location.

Once removed it gives you a bit more room to move the oil separator around. Refitting is the reverse sequence.

I also disconnected the electrical plug next to the fuel injection pump before removing the oil separator. This also gives a bit more room to twist and turn.

One other small difference is for EU4 motors there are no knock sensors. And there is an oil seal on the oil return leg of the crankcase separator but this can not be bought on its own. So I just cleaned it up and re-used.

And finally there is a locating pin behind the oil return leg - check it hasn’t bent down when removing the oil separator as this will stop the oil separator going back in fully.

And now for a few words of warning!

The oil cooler I bought was the Nissens assembly bought from Advanced Factors.

I checked the body screws and found one was not fully tightened up. So do check and make sure all are tight.

When I removed the oil filter cover small shards of plastic broke off from the threads. Not large pieces, but it left little chips inside the filter body. So had to clean these out.

It also came with a new generic no-brand oil filter already pre-fitted. When I re-fitted it I found it was very loose and sloppy. I measured up the locating spigot/drain plug and the o-ring only had an OD of 10.4mm. I replaced it with a new Ford filter which has an OD of 11.1mm and it fitted nice and snug. There is no way the supplied oil filter would plug the drain hole and you will lose some oil pressure.

Because I didn’t like the feel of the new oil filter cover, I initially decided to re-use the original filter cover. Despite torquing it up correctly when I started the engine the cover was leaking oil. Oil was getting past the oil seal (and dumping a fresh batch of oil to my nicely cleaned up valley). I ended up having to use the new filter cover and this solved the oil leak.

I did notice that the new filter cover has a different type of oil seal. The original uses a square cross section seal, the new housing uses a round cross section o-ring. When I do the next oil change will have to investigate this further.

All up - despite the fact that Nissens are meant to be the OEM oil cooler, there was enough differences to tell me it is not to the same quality as the original oil cooler. So do check it carefully.

Originally Posted by DiscoDB

And now for a few words of warning!

The oil cooler I bought was the Nissens assembly bought from Advanced Factors.

I checked the body screws and found one was not fully tightened up. So do check and make sure all are tight.

When I removed the oil filter cover small shards of plastic broke off from the threads. Not large pieces, but it left little chips inside the filter body. So had to clean these out.

It also came with a new generic no-brand oil filter already pre-fitted. When I re-fitted it I found it was very loose and sloppy. I measured up the locating spigot/drain plug and the o-ring only had an OD of 10.4mm. I replaced it with a new Ford filter which has an OD of 11.1mm and it fitted nice and snug. There is no way the supplied oil filter would plug the drain hole and you will lose some oil pressure.

Because I didn’t like the feel of the new oil filter cover, I decided to re-use the original filter cover. Despite torquing it up correctly when I started the engine the cover was leaking oil. Oil was getting past the oil seal (and dumping a fresh batch of oil to my nicely cleaned up valley). I ended up having to use the new filter cover and this solved the oil leak.

I did notice that the new filter cover has a different type of oil seal. The original uses a square cross section seal, the new housing uses a round cross section o-ring. When I do the next oil change will have to investigate this further.

All up - despite the fact that Nissens are meant to be the OEM oil cooler, there was enough differences to tell me it is not to the same quality as the original oil cooler. So do check it carefully.

I noticed immediately same dud filter. I also reused the original lid with no trouble because I wanted the OEM look.

The EU4 hpfp makes a slightly different removal puzzle for the separator to the EU3 hpfp.