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Thread: 2.7 tdv6 won't go after fuel system repair

  1. #1
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    2.7 tdv6 won't go after fuel system repair

    Hi all,

    Working on our discovery 3 2.7 and I broke some fuel system fittings at the fuel filter-spin on EU4 style, and back at the tank outlet.

    I have since replaced everything reinstalled the tank and started the car, it ran for 15 seconds then stopped and will not go again, I've checked and replaced the front and rear belt since it wouldn't go as I was doing it anyway.

    I'm only getting about 120 kPa on the rail pressure, and it fluctuates when cranking.

    It's been bleed a myriad of times at the Schrader valve, I've pulled the low pressure pump out of tank, everything is in order there, getting around 40 kPa at the Schrader valve, for some reason it seems the HPFP won't prime or isn't getting fuel.

    I'm wondering if something has got in the system that has affected the HPFP or blocked flow, but whatever got in would be basically nothing.

    I've cracked off 2 injector lines and some fuel is coming out of there.

    The only other thing I can think of is that I also replaced the turbo crossover pipe between it running and not running, could I have knocked off a plug or something back there?

    I do know cleanliness is critical but I feel that even if something had got in, I would be getting poor running... Not no running.

    I've checked I got the plumbing correct.

    It's driving me spanners.

    Any one have any thoughts?

    Cheers
    James

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    Are there any engine faults that need to be cleared? I don't know of any specifically but worth checking.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    Are there any engine faults that need to be cleared? I don't know of any specifically but worth checking.
    No, only ones caused by a drained battery, I had another look today and I'm thinking it's the LPFP, the longer I ran it the lower the pressure dropped, probably down to 3 psi, specs state 7.25 psi.

    It's gotta be that..... Doesn't it?

    For anyone wondering, changing the LPFP on one of these is not fun, it looks like 2 plastic octopi having a fight, with a plastic clip restraining them, that you can only get too once you've removed the pump, and then you've gotta trick them into coming out of a small plastic hole with more cables and hoses in the way.

    Having said that, it's much easier to remove than to refit.

    Cheers
    James

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    With that discrepancy ....
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  5. #5
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by shack View Post
    No, only ones caused by a drained battery, I had another look today and I'm thinking it's the LPFP, the longer I ran it the lower the pressure dropped, probably down to 3 psi, specs state 7.25 psi.

    It's gotta be that..... Doesn't it?
    I'd be surprised. If there is _any_ positive pressure from the LPFP it should prime the feed pump in the HPFP. When I was diagnosing my HPFP I drove the car a number of times with the LPFP fuse out and it ran just fine until I tried to put the boot in even with a significant vacuum on the pressure gauge at the schrader.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    I'd be surprised. If there is _any_ positive pressure from the LPFP it should prime the feed pump in the HPFP. When I was diagnosing my HPFP I drove the car a number of times with the LPFP fuse out and it ran just fine until I tried to put the boot in even with a significant vacuum on the pressure gauge at the schrader.
    I hear you..I guess the only difference is I'm trying to bleed.. but I'm out of ideas

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    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by shack View Post
    I hear you..I guess the only difference is I'm trying to bleed.. but I'm out of ideas
    Do you have an IID? Can you check the PCV & VCV are opening (or at least being commanded to open)?

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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    Do you have an IID? Can you check the PCV & VCV are opening (or at least being commanded to open)?
    Only a nano, but they are both being shown with fluctuating figures, duty cycle I guess.

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    Is there a pump fuse or relay that is in the system. I know the pump is belt driven but maybe worth a check to see if there is
    You say there were broken fittings, you havent lost an oring or similar from 1 and its sucking air thru the fitting at the filter or tank. The engine running for the 15secs would likely just have been the fuel left in the system.
    When I got my D3 thet told me dont ever run it out of fuel because they are a real bastard to bleed the fuel system. Never found a reason to find out if what they said was true or not.
    Bulletman

  10. #10
    josh.huber Guest
    Can you hear the pump at all?
    The easiest way to prime is to actually remove a line. I would remove the line at the out let of the fuel filter housing.. Get your partner to turn the key to IGN for about 10 seconds at a time.
    If the low pressure pump is working at all fuel should flow. Once it's flowing. IGN off. Reconnect. Then do the same at the inlet to the HPFP. Or just take the shraeder valve out.

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