Thread: 2005 V8 HSE Multiple Faults and getting to know the gap tool

Originally Posted by timdo1

Does anyone know what this connector does. Its inside front passenger wheel arch. It has a broken wire. Is it suspension related or something else? Anyway one wire was broken inside the connector. I will find a replacement and do a patch.

Attachment 174288

*On the passenger side front there are 2 plugs like that.
*If you follow the lead down it will go to the the abs sensor.
*If the lead on the other side of the plug is green and you follow it down it goes to the brake pad wear sensor (which you replace when you do a pad change)

*OP mentioned seeing green corrosion in the plug of the TCCM (transfer case control module).
*It a common issue on a D3, you may well find if you look closely inside on the printed circuit board there will be corrosion damage on it.
*You can replace it with a used TCCM (from any D3 or D4) and you wont need to calibrate it.
*The calibration though with a GAP tool or other diagnostic equipment isnt hard.
*A faulty TCCM through corrosion damage will cause a lot of seemingly unrelated faults.

Originally Posted by timdo1

Thats what scares me. I'm thinking that relay R211 inside the Battery Junction box is closing after I shut the ignition down. If I keep my foot on the brake switch it doesn't happen. I'm worried that R211 is inside the Battery Junction box and its faulty. GRRR.

Hope I'm wrong, Its going to be hard to replace that box. Everything else seems to have an origin except this.

Pretty simple to test if you think about it. Pull fuse 28P from the CJB. That feeds the relay coil for R211. I'll lay fair odds that R211 is R13 in the engine bay box though.

Originally Posted by BradC

Pretty simple to test if you think about it. Pull fuse 28P from the CJB. That feeds the relay coil for R211. I'll lay fair odds that R211 is R13 in the engine bay box though.

I thought either R11 or R13. Not sure why the drawing dont marry up with the actual. Makes it a bit harder.

Your right about that fuse, I assumed everything went to the battery junction box first, but it doesnt. I'll look at this from a different angle. Power appears to come into the central junction box before branching back out. Kind of need all the drawings in front of you at once.

Thanks for that, great spot.

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

*OP mentioned seeing green corrosion in the plug of the TCCM (transfer case control module).
*It a common issue on a D3, you may well find if you look closely inside on the printed circuit board there will be corrosion damage on it.
*You can replace it with a used TCCM (from any D3 or D4) and you wont need to calibrate it.
*The calibration though with a GAP tool or other diagnostic equipment isnt hard.
*A faulty TCCM through corrosion damage will cause a lot of seemingly unrelated faults.

I did look inside the Transfer Case module and found nothing, Cleaned it just in case. I had discounted it but I may replace it later if I cant find any other solutions. Quicker and probably cheaper than the CJB or BJB.

Thanks

SO today I replaced the gear shift and now that part works again.

I also pulled fuses in the CJB to see if I could get the electrics to stop coming on. one fuse in particular stopped everything from doing that. Fuse 15 which is for the stop light. So something very strange is going on here.

Anyone with any brilliant ideas at the minute? Do I assume the worse or do I keep investigating.

I was thinking next to make sure that the ignition switch was stopping power going to the CJB when its turned to off. Co582 is the plug connecting to the CJB but I'm unsure which one that is. Does anone know where that information lives?

Originally Posted by timdo1

SO today I replaced the gear shift and now that part works again.

I also pulled fuses in the CJB to see if I could get the electrics to stop coming on. one fuse in particular stopped everything from doing that. Fuse 15 which is for the stop light. So something very strange is going on here.

Anyone with any brilliant ideas at the minute? Do I assume the worse or do I keep investigating.

I was thinking next to make sure that the ignition switch was stopping power going to the CJB when its turned to off. Co582 is the plug connecting to the CJB but I'm unsure which one that is. Does anone know where that information lives?

Has it got electric trailer brakes? They could explain a whole heap if it's wiring in wrong

So Fuse 15 supplies the "normally open" contacts on the brake switch. It *should* do absolutely nothing if you turn the car off with the brake pedal released, but if you have the brake pedal pressed it feeds back into the CJB electronic module (for it to do the brake switch plausibility tests) and puts the brake lights on.

Given you say the issue doesn't occur if you hold your foot on the brake and turn the switch off, either go with what Josh said about additional stuff on the brake circuit, or the CJB might be looking dodgy.

Put the fuse in and pull the connector off the brake switch and see what happens.