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Thread: Help Needed - Chronic Brake Shudder

  1. #11
    wvollbon Guest
    Hi there, are you also going through brake pads?
    I recently had a situation where my front brakes were dragging/staying on. The rotors got cooked, pads stuffed and also took out the front wheel bearings.
    Ended up replacing the brake booster.
    Only mention this as your brake rotors may be warping due to excessive heat from dragging front brakes.
    My brakes may be different given the year difference and yours may be a 3.0 with larger brakes.
    MY11 2010 D4 2.7

  2. #12
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    I had the same repeated problem with wheel shudder under brakes
    The rotors and pads replaced twice but after a short period afterwards
    the shake returned, the rotors had minimal runout.
    And so as a last resort I replaced the callipers and no more shudder
    The callipers I believe were just sticky and I could have just put a calliper service kit in, but easier to just replace them.
    Hope that helps

  3. #13
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    New Pads?

    Reading through the thread I wonder if you have had new Disk pads during this process.

    I had a similar thing happen on a sports car some years ago. Went through a few machining of rotors etc and then new rotors and as the pads were 'new' they weren't replacing them just using them again.
    they turned out to be the problem and when I chucked them - had the new rotors machined and it all went away.

    the 'new' rotors were a known brand but were also rubbish it would seem.

    just a long shot but can often be overlooked by the experts.
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  4. #14
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    I have the same problem on my RRS with new pads and rotors fitted. I'd suggest a new set of pads of a different flavour. I did have similar issues with my Falcon ute which were eventually traced to a sitcky caliper slide after replacing several sets of pads and rotors. Modern pads seem to have a problem with pad material build up on the rotors leading to shudder but the causes can be many, ranging from a sticky caliper causing the pads to overheat and deposit material on the rotors to the actual pad design itself being inappropriate for the use of the vehicle.

    Regards,
    Tote
    Go home, your igloo is on fire....
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    Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....

  5. #15
    PeterJ Guest

    More of the same

    Hi DiscoFan, I feel your pain, I will be reading this thread with interest. My original pads/rotors lasted 120,000km, when I did the change I decided to "upgrade", bought some Delios slotted rotors and Delphi pads. I confess I did not delve any deeper into the brakes (calipers/pins/run-out check) because they had been excellent, not a trace of shudder (judder) but the new combination started shuddering after 2000km or so. Not being one for coincidence I immediately suspected the rotors and since I was pressed for time before our trip west I had the originals machined and threw in a new set of Bendix pads, same result. I checked the caliper pins and they were fine and (unfortunately for adding something positive and constructive to this thread) I have not yet been able to allocate the time to investigate further other than having the Delios rotors machined as well ready to start the investigation. I asked the brake service to measure run-out before machining and they said 0.008" (or 0.2mm which is my language)

    So, I have some work to do, good luck with your search.

    Peter

  6. #16
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    So it’s a misnomer that the discs warp. Much of the time it’s a bad pad/disc combo that causes poor pad distribution on the disc. There is a microscopic pad deposit that ends up on the disc. You can get build ups which aligns with the thickness difference between the vented flute and the solid sections. This tends to be the judder that’s felt. There are a lot of reasons for this, but it can be as simple as the pad compound being too hard or soft for the vehicle causing uneven buildup.

    The fix? Sometime a damn hard stop or two from 100kph will clear up the disc and it be good for a while. Generally a better pad/disc combo.

    The above ignores the other reasons for shudder which is the suspension having movement from worn bushes or steering components, which on an LR is more common than bad pads/discs. The lower control arm is notorious for allowing flex and thus judder when braking forces are applied.

    Stuck pistons/caliper pins would be the least common, but no uncommon.
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