Thread: D4 and Remap Impacts on crankshaft etc>

Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

Having finally got some backpay from Centrelink, I'm proposing to have Cambo in Sydney remap the 2016 D4 TDV6 and 8 speed transmission when we head over in March.

Given that I usually drive like a stately nana, but also pull a 3.5t behemoth, am I likely to exacerbate the potential for crank issues with 700Nm?

I would think the transmission remap will smooth out and reduce any likelihood of transmission problems arising.

I've had the engine remap from Cambo and all I can say is.... "do it"!!
I tow a 3.0T van and the engine does it sooo much easier.
I intend getting the auto done with Cambo when I am in Sydney with the car later in the year.
The Engine remap takes it to the spec of the latest 3.0 litre RRS engine, thus is same as LR/RR sent them out from the factory. As LR consider those specs ok for their cars then it goes without saying its ok to take ours to same.

Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

Given that I usually drive like a stately nana, but also pull a 3.5t behemoth, am I likely to exacerbate the potential for crank issues with 700NM?
While I'm not adverse to remaps as you know, but for this engine towing that weight in hot conditions I'd have to say yes as they are overstressed
If you drive like a nana you may be ok , but it begs the question, why would you need it?

I would think the transmission remap will smooth out and reduce any likelihood of transmission problems arising.

Yes to transmission remap, will improve the shift, but won't stop the potential for the selector fault, the ZF8's are a solid box.
If you need more grunt for towing heavy, you need the TDV8 rangie, or if Centrelink owe you the equivalent of a Caribbean island, then a D4 V8 conversion may suit sir better

Originally Posted by Discodicky

I've had the engine remap from Cambo and all I can say is.... "do it"!!
I tow a 3.0T van and the engine does it sooo much easier.
It may feel easier but there's bigger bangs on the crank.

As LR consider those specs ok for their cars then it goes without saying its ok to take ours to same.

​LOL

Not so sure about "bigger bangs on the crank", the torque curve is improved giving you (even) more low down torque for towing, at least that's what my remap gives me, 50000km and no issues,just easy towing. Keep up the engine oil and transmission fluid changes and all will be well.

Originally Posted by discorevy

Yes to transmission remap, will improve the shift, but won't stop the potential for the selector fault, the ZF8's are a solid box.
If you need more grunt for towing heavy, you need the TDV8 rangie, or if Centrelink owe you the equivalent of a Caribbean island, then a D4 V8 conversion may suit sir better

Actually am pretty happy with the 520? from the standard map in 99% of scenarios, after all I did originally tow with an almost standard D2a.

If the remap doesn't create too much more engine stress or adversely affect economy, then why not for an overall "benefit"?

Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

Not so sure about "bigger bangs on the crank", the torque curve is improved giving you (even) more low down torque for towing, at least that's what my remap gives me, 50000km and no issues,just easy towing. Keep up the engine oil and transmission fluid changes and all will be well.

Yes, simplistic, but how else would you expect the torque curve to be improved?.
There's a difference between pulling a camper trailer and a 3.5 tonne Caravan through hot and hilly country

Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

Actually am pretty happy with the 520? from the standard map in 99% of scenarios, after all I did originally tow with an almost standard D2a.

If the remap doesn't create too much more engine stress or adversely affect economy, then why not for an overall "benefit"?

Gavin, I had forgotten yours was the 520nm TDV6 so, considering your mechanical sympathy, you'd be fine to go the 600nm of the SDV6. 700nm tends to warp exhaust manifolds with towing heavy and as you know there's a bit more involved than a TD5

Well I don't think there's a definitive scientific answer to this question...

On one hand you could take a fatalistic approach, that if a crank is going to break, it is going to break, regardless of what power the motor is making, how many kms on it or how the vehicle is used.
Just yesterday I was informed of a 2016 D4 that broke it's crank with only 40k on the clock, dead stock, no tune, a city vehicle never used for towing... so it's not like it was knackered...

There is an idea however, that the factory tunes are perhaps contributing to the crank problems, because they are tuned primarily to meet an emissions target, not to run as best as they can.
The goal with our tunes is to make the engine run (& the vehicle drive) as nice as possible. That means giving it the fuel it needs (and when) to run efficiently and smoothly, not to hit an emissions target.
I've heard from so many people who got our tune that the engine runs smoother, even the idle is smoother than stock. Smooth running is going to put less vibrations into the crank, less shocks.
Now it's just an idea, I don't know how to prove this. But of all the 3.0's that got our 700Nm tune (and there are hundreds now, not just here but around the world) I'm not aware of any breaking a crank yet.

Originally Posted by discorevy

Gavin, I had forgotten yours was the 520nm TDV6 so, considering your mechanical sympathy, you'd be fine to go the 600nm of the SDV6. 700nm tends to warp exhaust manifolds with towing heavy and as you know there's a bit more involved than a TD5

g'day Craig. I have a slight suspicion that I might already have the SDV6 remap . The car goes well and was previously owned by a Barbagello manager who was planning to turn it into a tow tug but got sick and sold it off - will find out with Cambo).
If I do go the whole hog, shouldn't I be safe with the manifolds if I use 600 degrees at the EGT sensors as the backoff temp (and maybe up to 650 very short term if needed?)

Originally Posted by Cambo_oldjaguar

Well I don't think there's a definitive scientific answer to this question...

On one hand you could take a fatalistic approach, that if a crank is going to break, it is going to break, regardless of what power the motor is making, how many kms on it or how the vehicle is used.
Just yesterday I was informed of a 2016 D4 that broke it's crank with only 40k on the clock, dead stock, no tune, a city vehicle never used for towing... so it's not like it was knackered...

There is an idea however, that the factory tunes are perhaps contributing to the crank problems, because they are tuned primarily to meet an emissions target, not to run as best as they can.
The goal with our tunes is to make the engine run (& the vehicle drive) as nice as possible. That means giving it the fuel it needs (and when) to run efficiently and smoothly, not to hit an emissions target.
I've heard from so many people who got our tune that the engine runs smoother, even the idle is smoother than stock. Smooth running is going to put less vibrations into the crank, less shocks.
Now it's just an idea, I don't know how to prove this. But of all the 3.0's that got our 700Nm tune (and there are hundreds now, not just here but around the world) I'm not aware of any breaking a crank yet.

Hundreds is good, and have no doubt your tune files are an improvement on factory for smoothness, but of the 3 I've seen personally ( I know it's a small sample ) with spun bearings, 2 were remapped ( not by you ) , all were in the summer, 2 were towing (1 remap, 1 standard tune) also seen 2 with warped manifolds, both remapped as have other workshops and I vaguely remember Justin C saying something similar on here.

Don't get me wrong Cambo, what you do with these beasts is fantastic, and I'm not anti remap, but if making the fuel delivery smoother were to actually save the engine from ****ting itself , it doesn't say much for the engine.
Other manufacturers of the Diesel V6 with it's inherent primary balance deficit use balance shafts and alloy or cast iron blocks to absorb vibes better.

I always feel like the harbinger of death on the D3/D4 section when it comes to The TDV6's, but you just need to take a look at how delicate (and thin) the crank journals are on these along with what they're being asked to haul in hot ambient temps to see potential issues , they are a car engine.... in my opinion of course

Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

g'day Craig. I have a slight suspicion that I might already have the SDV6 remap . The car goes well and was previously owned by a Barbagello manager who was planning to turn it into a tow tug but got sick and sold it off - will find out with Cambo).
If I do go the whole hog, shouldn't I be safe with the manifolds if I use 600 degrees at the EGT sensors as the backoff temp (and maybe up to 650 very short term if needed?)

Dazza should be able to tell you which version if he takes it for a squirt?.
I reckon you've got a better chance than most of mechanical sympathy Gavin
notwithstanding towing a 3.5 ton parachute of course