I dont think there is,but it definitely won't do the engine any favours.
If you want to get it tuned,just do it and dont worry,drive it whatever way you like,and take the chance with it.
The chance of a crankshaft issue is probably very minimal anyway.
I do remember JC saying he has changed quite a few cracked exhaust maniflods on the 3.0L,and they were all tuned,many done by 'Roo systems.
Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)
Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)
Have a look at this,Post 30 is interesting.
There is not much JC doesnt know about LR's.
But tunes are different,some much better than others.
i had my D4 tuned,for 9yrs,never had an issue,had the BAS tune.But it was the 2.7L.
Huge increase in drivability,torque,reduction in lag,etc.
Are the EGR sensors before the Turbo on the 3.0L?
3.0 D4 re maps
Some of the el cheapo diesel tunes (eg, "chips") simply push in more fuel to increase hp and not taking into account all the myriad of other parameters (throttle position/engine temp/rpm, etc etc).
These are the tunes which will potentially cause engine failures and in particularly high EGT's.
I had one such on my 2004 GXL Cruiser when I bought it in 2007 and removed it due to the risk of engine damage was too high.
Was far too easy to see the EGT's rise unacceptably.
Generally speaking, high EGT's are usually caused by the above (sub standard re-maps/chips) and/or driver negligence. ie, pushing foot through floor at low rpm which is stuffing heaps of unburnt fuel through the engine and due to poor/inefficient combustion, it raises EGT's.
Keep your rpm up, foot NOT thru the floor, and engine efficiency is at optimum. The EGT's will be fine under those circumstances.
Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)
Just another angle Gavin, it might have a tune already, but it might not be the one that you want, it might be wise to just get cambos tune just so you actually know what you have.
A smoother running engine will help the crank last in all cases, there was a guy on here chasing an engine misfire which turned into a snapped crank!
That is why i was asking,does anyone know for sure?
I watch the EGT's,and other Temps on a readout on our LC,and i am yet to see them over 490 degrees.Most of the time they sit around 300 to 350 depending on ambients,load,etc,etc.They can rise quickly once a large hill comes along.Even in soft sand,Low Range on Fraser,35 ambient,they didnt go over 480 degrees.
They are situated post turbo,just in front of DPF's.
i recon before the turbo is probably better as the reading is more accurate,and its the exact reading.
I expect it's far more accurate, but as the sensor on my D3 is post turbo and pre-cat I just use that. I have had a couple of times we've hit 500C working the car far harder than any reasonable person should while dragging the van up a long steep hill, but I keep a weather eye on it and back off a bit as it gets up there.
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