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Thread: 3.0 TDV6 broken crankshaft / engine rebuild

  1. #61
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    I thought the bearing rotation is the cause of the failures?

    This is the best line to take for a rebuild IMHO - I would definitely be getting the short block built by someone who does it for race engines.

    Quote Originally Posted by Discodicky View Post
    Use only Genuine engine crankshaft and bearing shells or be well satisfied that other parts are made to OEM specs.

    On the face of it, and without knowing exact failure causes, to me these failures strongly suggest the bearing crush has been insufficient which had allowed the shell to rotate and thus once again block the oil feed hole.

    I would be taking my conrods to an engine rebuild specialist along the lines of a company who prepare racing engines as these guys know the tricks and how to 'properly' assemble an engine to make it last!
    I'd be asking about the pros and cons of pinning the bearing shell in each conrod cap, thus preventing that shell from spinning which in turn will prevent its conrod shell from spinning.

    I'd strongly consider getting that engine specialist to assemble the bottom end for you, fitting pistons as well, so he has in fact built the "short" engine assembly.
    It would be interesting to have a new genuine shaft etc balanced to see what the tolerances are.

    Ideally on a rebuild you would have the block crack tested (& either sleeved, honed or bored), then shaft & HB balanced then the rods and the pistons balanced so the whole short block (ends, bearings etc) is clearanced appropriately and balanced again?? Solving for longevity not max HP...

    I'm sure I have also seen that you can also order a whole short block from the UK.
    2010 LR4 TDV6 : 265/60/18 K02s : Traxide DBS :

  2. #62
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    Engine Recall

    Quote Originally Posted by Fabsky View Post
    Hello everyone. In my Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 it refused to obey and more precisely the crankshaft broke. I decided to fix it myself. I am addressing all those who have done it before, that is, what is also worth paying attention to / refreshing beyond the main fault so that the engine will be used as long as possible.
    Can anyone recommend proven sources where it is best to buy engine parts? I will also be grateful if someone has a shop manual for the engine with technical data.
    I tried to search this extensive forum but couldn't find the information I was looking for. If I missed something, I am sorry.

    Cheers
    Fabian
    So I just did an entire swap after the piston connecting rod went through the block. The crankshaft along with the piston assembly is an accident waiting to happen. There’s actually a recall out specifically for this on the 2015 Disco S (NHTSA 15V069000) but Land Rover is waiting to get enough people with seized engines because of this to actually do anything about it
    Last edited by JonathanDC; 22nd October 2022 at 07:04 AM. Reason: Misspelled

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonathanDC View Post
    So I just did an entire swap after the piston connecting rod went through the block. The crankshaft along with the piston assembly is an accident waiting to happen. There’s actually a recall out specifically for this on the 2015 Disco S (NHTSA 15V069000) but Land Rover is waiting to get enough people with seized engines because of this to actually do anything about it
    That would be the 3.0ltr supercharged petrol engines. These have a different crank/block to the 3.0ltr Diesel engines.
    2014, MY14 Discovery TDV6, Fuji White (2018-Now)
    2003, Discovery 2a, Td5 Manual, Zambezi Silver (2012-2018)
    2007, Adventure Offroad Campers, Grand Tourer (2015-Now)

  4. #64
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    Yes I believe they use the Jaguar V8 block with rear two pistons and conrods etc removed.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  5. #65
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    Wink

    Hi guys, small update. Search for the crankshaft in AU with no results. I found a new original one in Europe. The parcel was delivered last Thursday (8 days from placing the order) plus some few parts from au as well 😎




    9F70E78B-853F-4C89-900E-83D1E5CFBAD2.jpg53F67462-055A-48F6-88E1-D28762BC64F2.jpgE3A504A6-F774-4217-A1B5-96DD3A917EF3.jpg

  6. #66
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    It really does look like a flimsy crankshaft - no wonder the Yanks beefed it up to go into US Ford vehicles.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  7. #67
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    Are there any differences between the 2 that might indicate a different casting or manufacturer?
    Are there any markings that indicate the manufacture date of the new one?
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  8. #68
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    Thatis the weakest looking crank I have ever seen, I am certainly no expert but it looks like it wants to snap, sit a crank from an engine that is known for bottom end strength next to it....
    Discovery 1 4.6, true trac front and rear, superior engineering arms,old tourer now bush toy
    Discovery 4 3.0 HSE MY13 ECB Bull bar, winch, spot lights, aux fuel tank, Kaymar rear bar, duel wheel carriers, 18 tuff ant wheels 265/65/18 BFG KO2's for play

  9. #69
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    The TDV8 crank makes the TDV6 crank look very fragile.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    Are there any differences between the 2 that might indicate a different casting or manufacturer?
    Are there any markings that indicate the manufacture date of the new one?


    They even look the same. The same type of marking with the difference that the new one was produced in 2022

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