Thread: Tyre bead breaker - food for thought

Originally Posted by sharmy

Tried the ratchet strap but it did not work on the disco 3 wheels.

There's a reason tyre fitters use a high volume, high flow apparatus to hit the tyre with a shock of air to seat the bead. Modern tyres make it extremely difficult to create the seal needed for inflation. Being on your own, with no access to such things, leaves few alternatives to the effective, but risky, pyrotechnic methods described. Personally, I'd give using petrol a wide berth, although you could dilute some in a mister I suppose. Petrol is bloody dangerous. Aerosol ether, such as Aerostart, works well. Start with small amounts and stand back!

Luckily and fingers crossed, I've never had to remove the tyre while in the bush hence never using the bead breaker bought years ago. Plugging holes is much easier except for big damge and hopefully I never suffer from that for the bush driving time I have left.
Sticking mostly to day trips and not too remote with the Cook now for a variety of reasons mostly as the group I'm with doesn't do much of anything anyway.
AlanH.

I can tell you all right now... Tyre pliers / other breakers have almost zero chance of removing a tyre from the Late LR wheel unless the tyre has recently been off and refitted.

When removing the factory tyres from the 90s wheels we broke 2 shop tyre machines.
When removing a D2 tyre that had been on for 5 years we took 45 minutes to break the first bead using a high powered workshop unit

Good luck!

Reviving an old thread.

Anyway recently I was having a play with my D3 17" rims and thought it would be interesting to compare the effort to break the bead compared to another generic rim:

I gotta say the LR rims took some serious effort to break the bead - and on a side note they can be just as painful to reseat the outside/front bead as well!

Great post Shane.

I thought the LR rims had a section where they were designed to have the bead broken. Opposite the valve comes to memory. The internal bead lip flattens to make it easier to dismount. If you still have the tyre off can you check?

simon

Originally Posted by eckolsim

Great post Shane.

I thought the LR rims had a section where they were designed to have the bead broken. Opposite the valve comes to memory. The internal bead lip flattens to make it easier to dismount. If you still have the tyre off can you check?

simon

By eye I couldn't spot any flattening out around the bead area

Just googled the ADR that specifies bead breaking requirements. ADR 23/01 seems to apply.

This states that, as per clause 23.2.2.2.4.3: "each tubeless tyre specification with a 'specified design section' width of 8.0 inches or 205mm or more.....required a mean applied force to unseat the tyre bead at the point of contact equal or greater than 11,120N"

Seeing as most modern tyres are at larger than a 205 section width, this would appear to be the most applicable one. Therefore, you need just over 1 tonne (1.133 to be precise)of force to unseat a tyre of that size to be ADR 23/01 compliant.

Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

Just googled the ADR that specifies bead breaking requirements. ADR 23/01 seems to apply.

This states that, as per clause 23.2.2.2.4.3: "each tubeless tyre specification with a 'specified design section' width of 8.0 inches or 205mm or more.....required a mean applied force to unseat the tyre bead at the point of contact equal or greater than 11,120N"

Seeing as most modern tyres are at larger than a 205 section width, this would appear to be the most applicable one. Therefore, you need just over 1 tonne (1.133 to be precise)of force to unseat a tyre of that size to be ADR 23/01 compliant.

“Equal or greater” so you need AT LEAST 1 tonne