At (only) 110,000 klms you don't need new turbo's, fuel pump, injectors, etc etc. so no point in paying mega bucks for a new crate motor.
Get the turbo's cleaned for any debris.
Since the shaft hasn't snapped (nor brg seized?) then the block should be ok, just check tunnel bore alignment and if ok just "do" the bottom end.
				
			 
			
		 
			
				
			
			
				Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)
			
			
		 
	
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