Thread: Fuel Pump Belt

Originally Posted by woko

The fuel pump belt on a 3 litre is timed. The fuel pump belt on a 2.7 is not timed. The camshaft pin has to be installed before doing the pump belt. Some people will only do them with the body off. It is a doable thing with the body on, but it is very tight.

This adds another level of complexity. I'm about to replace mine and didn't realise that the belt was timed. I've replaced one a TDV6 Territory and that was pretty straight forward and could be done with feel only. The SDV6 requires full visual so I think I'll need some sort of inspection camera along with the locking tools. I assume the timing isn't as critical as the front timing belt. My guess is its to ensure the pump produces a fuel pressure pulse at the optimum point for faster starting. I have noticed that there is slightly less cranking on the SDV6 compared with my TDV6.
Definitely not looking forward to this maintenance job.

Originally Posted by CountOtto

This adds another level of complexity. I'm about to replace mine and didn't realise that the belt was timed. I've replaced one a TDV6 Territory and that was pretty straight forward and could be done with feel only. The SDV6 requires full visual so I think I'll need some sort of inspection camera along with the locking tools. I assume the timing isn't as critical as the front timing belt. My guess is its to ensure the pump produces a fuel pressure pulse at the optimum point for faster starting. I have noticed that there is slightly less cranking on the SDV6 compared with my TDV6.
Definitely not looking forward to this maintenance job.

A small mirror like a compact works well.

Originally Posted by loanrangie

A small mirror like a compact works well.

I dare you to take one from the Mrs’ stash and see what happens, speaking from experience, and divorced.

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

I dare you to take one from the Mrs’ stash and see what happens, speaking from experience, and divorced.

Pet Budgie mirror is the better option,silicone it to a 2ft piece of 1/4" copper pipe.

I had one for years and it worked well,could bend it in any direction.

Originally Posted by CountOtto

I assume the timing isn't as critical as the front timing belt.

From my reading of the WSM it needs to be correct. I didn't find setting the timing was difficult although I rechecked several times before setting it in stone.

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

I dare you to take one from the Mrs’ stash and see what happens, speaking from experience, and divorced.

No downside to that .

Originally Posted by Woz

Hi there,

thanks for all your help, I have ordered the fuel pump sprocket holding tool today.

once the job is complete, I will report back, if I still have skin on my knuckles.

Woz

mornin'
where did you buy the locker tools?

I've just looked at the WSM for this job and given the pain it is to lock the fly wheel, I think it can be done without doing so.
If I rotate the crank (with the old belt in situ) until the alignment marks are in the upper position as per the diagram from the WSM, and then place the pump locking tool in position and jiggle the crank until the locking tool fits. It should then be in the correct position. The old belt can then be removed with both the cam drive and pump in the right position. Given the effort in moving the crank by hand, there is no way the cam drive is going to move while fitting the new belt.
Any thoughts?