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Thread: Spot to mount Air Compressor?

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    BlackPerth (UK forum - DISCO3.CO.UK) has this photo in his gallery of his ARB compressor mounted on the LH guard in front of the main battery. I've seen it "in the flesh" and it is a neat installation.

  2. #12
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    Or not bother with a compressor - use the one you have already.



    You need a regulator as the tank air is at 210PSI +.

  3. #13
    Yowie13 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by fatnold View Post
    I'm in the process of weening myself off my beloved D1 and onto my D3. First order of business was some tyres. 5 x BFG 265 65 18R's.
    First issue. The spare doesn't fit (in usual spot) when properly inflated.
    So now i really should have a compressor on board all the time instead of just chucking it in when going on a trip.

    Has anyone found a nice place to fit one in?
    Same spot as a few others. In front of the main Battery. Made a bracket to mount the ARB compressor from some bits from Bunnings. Used existing mounting points to bolt it all into place. Solid mount and great compressor.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #14
    andycapper Guest
    nnn
    Last edited by andycapper; 5th March 2009 at 10:26 AM. Reason: link does not work

  5. #15
    andycapper Guest
    If at first you don't succeed....hopefully this (reduced size) attachment will get in!

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1236213696

    The bracket uses two existing captive nuts just in front of the battery box. The lower bolts necessitated removal of the inner guard to drill the holes and fit them - drilling blind would be risky due to the hidden construction, ribs and components beneath.

    Orientation and location of bracket/compressor is intended to minimise risk of the compressor being hit with a jet of muddy water through the holes below. Still leave the plastic plug in place when not in use to keep dust etc out of the coupling.

    The compressor works very well (even better with engine running).

    More (and higher resolution) photos in my gallery, if of interest.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    For those who are interested tapping into the tank is easy.
    You will need to get some bits for the connections. Bunnings stock some but you will need a stop cock as well.
    Get an engineering shop to tap a hole in the tank bung.
    You will need to release the air from the tank but slightly loosening the bung.


    DO NOT UNDO FAR, JUST ENOUGH TO RELEASE THE AIR SLOWLY. THE TANK HAS AIR AT 210psi PLUS!

    For this reason you will need an in line regulator to bring the pressure below 100psi.

    I used a different one (and removed the guage) but this one should be enough for tyres:

    https://www.air-supply.com.au/shop/p...3&bestseller=Y


    Order:
    Tank
    Stop cock
    regulator
    Nitto self closing connection
    Male/ female ended nitto fitted hose
    tyre guage and fitting.

    As the suspension is down with the bung out you will need to take the bung to an engineering shop to thread it for you.
    Put it all together with some Teflon tape and check for leaks.

    You will need to close the valve when connecting and disconnecting the hose.

    Usual caveats apply do any changes at your own risk.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Gold Coast
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    HI Caver,

    I'm very interested in your system, could you please answer the following: -

    Does the stop cock thread/tap into the existing brass bung?
    Why do you need to close the valve to connect the hose? ie isn't the pressure regulated at connection?
    Is the grey line the factory air suspension hose?

    Thx for sharing this mod with us all. Cheers

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaverD3 View Post
    Get an engineering shop to tap a hole in the tank bung.

    As the supension is down with the bung out you will need to take the bung to an engineering shop to thread it for you.

    All threads you will use are 3/8 inch fittings I think, so a hole needs to be drilled and threaded in the bung to match the thread on the stop cock first. You may need a male to male connector for this or between the stop cock and the regulator.

    Even at 100psi there is still a lot of pressure making it hard to connect the hose especially as you are doing it underneath the vehicle.

  9. #19
    WazzaACT Guest
    Will. Did you mean the air intake or outlet that you plumbed to the rear.

  10. #20
    robruss83 Guest

    Defender heat thru floor

    Hi I'm New we have just bought a new 2.4Litre lDefender and are experiencing a problem with heat coming through the floor . I have a temp. probe attached to the floor and on a 200km. trip under the seats at the rear of the seats and the floor are registering a temperature of 47 degrees Celcius . On trip from Sydney to Melbourne 11 + hours 900+ kms. It was even Hotter . The dealership are saying these temperatures are normal and so is the landrover care assistance people . Surely this is not nomal especially as the gear box/ transmission are so hot you cannot leave your hand on them. I have travelled re 12000 kms.
    Can anyone help as it is extremely uncomfortable in the cabin?
    Contact thru robruss83@hotmail.com

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