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Thread: L322 Snorkel/Raised Air Intake.

  1. #1
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    L322 Snorkel/Raised Air Intake.

    [ATTACH]IMG_3618.jpg

    IMG_3619.jpg[/ATTACH]
    I dont recommend this for the faint hearted, the time poor, or a less than serious DIYer.



    I am quite happy with the results though.
    1. I started by borrowing a D3/4 RAI and determined that it needed a bit of bending to rear and in towards the A pillar to match slope. I next purchased a $149 cheapie (I didnt want to risk wrecking the $1100 LR one).
    2. Then applied a bit of heat to the area where bending was required.
    3. Remove "blade" vent and test fit of new shape. I would have preferred to have tube fitted more snugly to A pillar, however would have required too much heating and bending with risk of damaging snorkel. There is a gap of about 30mm.
    4. A bit of cutting into the mudguard support bracket was required to allow air tube connection to snorkel.
    5. Mudguard was then removed to allow enlarged hole where existing air intake enters mudguard space, this necessary to allow air tube to return to rear. Space between chassis, guard liner and guard is quite limited but I managed to fit an 88mm heavy vinyl spiral tube in by squashing it into an oval shape. (I discarded the standard 75mm tube as it was very light construction and I wanted max airflow )
    6. The blade vent was cut down to allow for airtube entry and a new fixing made for the new top of the blade.
    7. Snorkel fixing to mudguard was possible with 3 of the original disco bolt fixings. Fixing to A pillar was made and the A pillar cover cutout to suit.
    The above is a much simplified outline of what I did.
    If anyone is interested I will put together some more detail and photos of cutouts etc which could help any else contemplating this. I recommend to allow plenty of time to think out each step carefully, final assembly is quite a jigsaw.
    The Disco snorkel was a good choice as it has clearance for the clamshell bonnett, and the line at rear fits nicely to the door line where the top of the blade vent is removed.
    Cheers
    Peter

  2. #2
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    Nicely done Peter. That's the sort of thing I had in mind. A couple of questions...

    When you get the pipe in under the bonnet, how have you connected it to the engine? Are you still using the standard air cleaner and housing?

    This is one of the areas I have an issue with. I pulled the air cleaner on mine today after getting back from a trip where we covered about 500 KM off road in a convoy. I was less than impressed with how the air cleaner and housing have handled this - there was some evidence that some dust may have made it past where the air cleaner mounts to the intake pipe. It is a crap system that can never really keep pressure on that joint long term - time will tell if I have ****ed the engine or not, but I cannot in good conscience leave it like it is if I plan to do more touring in it. It was a brand new filter before I left, but the vibration seems to cause them to come loose on this joint - not good news for the sort of work I plan to do with mine. I will be changing the air filter, oil filter an oil this week, but the damage may have already been done.

    Lastly - any chance I can drop in one day and have a look? I get down to Geelong quite a bit for work and would love to check it out in person.

    Oh, and have you got a link to he $149 cheapie you bought?

    Thanks heaps - Gav.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by bacicat View Post
    Nicely done Peter. That's the sort of thing I had in mind. A couple of questions...

    When you get the pipe in under the bonnet, how have you connected it to the engine? Are you still using the standard air cleaner and housing?

    This is one of the areas I have an issue with. I pulled the air cleaner on mine today after getting back from a trip where we covered about 500 KM off road in a convoy. I was less than impressed with how the air cleaner and housing have handled this - there was some evidence that some dust may have made it past where the air cleaner mounts to the intake pipe. It is a crap system that can never really keep pressure on that joint long term - time will tell if I have ****ed the engine or not, but I cannot in good conscience leave it like it is if I plan to do more touring in it. It was a brand new filter before I left, but the vibration seems to cause them to come loose on this joint - not good news for the sort of work I plan to do with mine. I will be changing the air filter, oil filter an oil this week, but the damage may have already been done.

    Lastly - any chance I can drop in one day and have a look? I get down to Geelong quite a bit for work and would love to check it out in person.

    Oh, and have you got a link to he $149 cheapie you bought?

    Thanks heaps - Gav.
    Gav,
    I cut the rubberised existing tube through the straight section, so I have about 200mm of new tube protruding into the bonnet space. No changes to air box. I have never had the problem with the filter you mention, and have done quite a few 000k's in the dust. In the early days when I had a service at the dealer, the car came back with the rear screws not done up and the box not correctly fitted together. It is a bit fiddly to get right and the last screw is a pain to do up due to lack of clearance. I am sure you do it correctly but if in the past this has happened to your car the box may have become distorted in some way ? When I fit new filters in mine they always seem to bed in firmly at the rear, perhaps a spacer glued in at rear may help hold it firmly ? What I did experience 2 years ago after countless water xings one day was a few drops of water in the bottom of the box, this together with the desire to keep the filter cleaner in the dust has been driving me to come up with a solution. What I dont know is if the water entered via the drain holes in the bottom of the box or through the air intake. On balance I tend to think that the drain holes need to stay - I would be interested in other opinions on this.
    The cheapie RAI is actually not bad, bore is smooth and the tube is quite strong. when mounted up there is no movement, it does have Discovery 3 on it in raised letters but I managed to remove them. The seller is on ebay, www.aussieautoparts.com Fact 2/35 Salvator Dr Campellfield Vic
    Ph 1300 06 07 08
    Re a look, see my PM
    Cheers Peter

  4. #4
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    Noice

    Just looking at this im wondering if a P38 Right hand mud guard would fit . Without the vents it may be able fit the snorkel much closer . Im not sure if the guards are the same but they look close. Im sure some one out there will know.

  5. #5
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    Hi Peter,
    Does the snorkel intrude on vision? The A pillar already quite big, so maybe not a problem?

    Has anyone looked at a snorkel on left side? Yes, I know, more headaches with piping! I've been (very occasionally) thinking along the lines of home made one I fitted to my previous 1994 LSE; 3"ss tube and, can't remember what car the scoop came from now, from TJM, but as luck held out, it finished being quite close to roof so didn't catch tree branches, etc
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  6. #6
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    Forgot to mention that THAT scoop only suited to left A pillar; damn!

    Yes, I did make the alloy sidesteps and bullbar; bar was centre section of a bent Landcruiser one from the tip; I made the outer wings.; fitted the original airbag "crushable" mountings and the machinery inspector passed it, along with additional fuel tanks, when in for the TD5 transplant inspection. No, no carton deal.

    Back in the days when I had brake presses, folders, guillotines, migs, tigs.
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  7. #7
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    Hi Don,
    Re Vision, looking forward from driving position, cannot see snorkel. Looking forward thru side window can see 1/3 of snorkel tube, remainder is behind A pillar. If you pm me your email I will send more photos, (easier for me to send rather than post here).
    Peter

  8. #8
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    I've just learnt that the 4.4 TDV8 has a primary turbo on the RHS and a secondary on the LHS. For slower, low power off-road use where the majority of air would be via the RHS air-cleaner for the primary turbo a snorkel on the RHS only might be a worthwhile option to reduce dust intake.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    I've just learnt that the 4.4 TDV8 has a primary turbo on the RHS and a secondary on the LHS. For slower, low power off-road use where the majority of air would be via the RHS air-cleaner for the primary turbo a snorkel on the RHS only might be a worthwhile option to reduce dust intake.
    Does the 4.4 L322 have 2 air filter boxes? I read somewhere the 3.6 has a turbo for each bank. My 3.6 has one filter box on the passenger side. Here's two pics. image-3779644736.jpg image-3862908802.jpg
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  10. #10
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    The 3.6 is a true twin-turbo engine whereas the 4.4 is like the 3.0 TDV6 with a primary 1 side and a secondary on the the other side with an exhaust cross-over pipe across the back of the engine and an inlet isolation valve to isolate the secondary turbo, similar to the 3.0 TDV6.

    The 4.4 has 2 air-boxes, 1 on each side. Your airbox is similar to the 3.0 TDV6 with 1 air intake and 2 MAFs, 1 to each turbo.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

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