Thread: More 5L40E problems

Originally Posted by harlie

Yep, I have my car

The summarised list starting with pressure specific rectification:
• Machine bell housing surfaces & Machine front pump assembly (specialist #1 outsource)
• Machine valve body & fit sleave kit, valves (specialist #2 outsource) – aka valve body sonnax treatment
• Machine Front pump & fit regulator valve kit (specialist #2 outsource) – aka pressure pump sonnax treatment
• New pressure control solenoid

And continue with
• Overall kit (seals/gaskets ect)
• Bush kit
• Full set of clutch frictions (one was worn the rest looked perfect)
• Clutch piston kit (the old pistons had hard rings/seals – apparently they are not repairable?)
• Filter (his price for a filter kit makes me cry)
• Flush the lines & cooler
• Fluid
• Torque converter overhaul, modification and clutch replacement (specialist #3 outsource)

I felt a couple of gear changes early on but it has smoothed out entirely over the afternoon, the ECU will be learning how to make shifts smooth in the new environment, according to the manual it can take a few days.

Couple points of interest.
I used my torque converter; it is definitely different to the early models. It now has a quality clutch in there (original had heaps of life left after 183k) and the stall speed has been adjusted down – who knew they could do that?? Apparently I'm the first 5L40 to ask for it. Answer - no worries. He says he wants feed back next week...

*** I can’t recommend the stall speed modification enough – it is beautiful and only cost $80. It is a subtle change that brings the revs down across the throttle range, and encourages earlier up shifts (I assume due to in and out shaft speeds being closer). I have spent the afternoon keeping up with city traffic and it didn’t go over 2500rpm, only went close a few times in the first 2 gears on a hill where it went to 24-25. Once moving (over 25-30kph) it likes to run between 1900 and 2200 no mater what hill you give it.

update: give it the beans on the freeway on ramp - pulls like a train @2800-2900

I don’t know the exact stall speed (won’t be as low as Don’s 2600 - at a guess about 3000), don’t know the factory either – I asked for 10-15% reduction, apparently they work off %reduction for modifications.

as a side note - mr blaster's (melbourne) super special heavy duty torque converter is actually your old converter (or an exchange) with a heavier clutch fitted. Which is pretty much what I have... The $absurd goes up if your old converter is buggered. I am sure this is why the 2 repairers were not really interested in it - they already know this, my guy was questioning his features list.... I called, he got very squirmy when I started pushing for details, by this time I had seen the inside of mine

It now has a different fluid – it is not GM licensed DXvi. When i asked the logic for this, he said that the full synthetic gives better pressure performance and life and we are no longer restricted to DXvi (for wear issues) because it isn’t really a GM box anymore. Fluid is Penrite AFT FS – which is good for future services as its double the price - He did stress, you must use the licensed stuff prior to sleaving all the bits that wear.

As mentioned earlier according to various sources my 2004 should have an upgraded transmission? Not sure, other than the TC.

Is it a 5L50E in disguise? No, definitely not!

Harlie
Did you get your auto fixed up at Rhys and he outsourced the bits he could not do ?.

No mate, mine was done in Brisbane, by the guy that does the "factory" boxes that the QLD BMW dealers sell...

He outsources the TC, machining and valve block work - all require specialist tooling. As far as timing goes, the TC and valve block dictated how long it took. I left the car with him on Friday 3pm. The TC and valve block were on the Monday morning courier pickup and were back to him Wednesday arv and Thursday morning. Car was ready Thursday arv.

I've spoken to Rhys a couple times - you'll be right with him. Only thing he differed on opinion was the valve block. Rhys likes the new option.

ask for a 15% stall speed reduction

No worries Harlie Im going to be in Brisbane for a while so if the old girl needs to be done I will get the guy who did yours, if you can let me know the address & name of the company I will contact them and have a chat.

pm sent.

You in town?

Originally Posted by harlie

pm sent.

You in town?

Harlie Im working in remote QLD looking at moving to Brisbane , but at moment the old girl is still in Adelaide I will get the auto done in Adelaide as I dont think it will make the drive to QLD as I have done the test you said to do and over the last couple of days the shudder has got more load so went to my Landrover mechanic here and he knows a very good auto transmission guy who will do the fix up, hope to catch up with you when I move to QLD maybe get some 4wd in.

I was wondering where it was. Good move, I wouldn't try and drive it out of town, once the pressure drops to the point where we notice it slipping, I think it goes down pretty fast.

We need some more numbers, not many of us TD6 owners up here...

Well the old girl is gone in for auto surgery, she should come back all better & stronger and with a lower stall speed I will inform all of you about her condition and how well she recovers.

Yeah. Hip Hip Hooray. Party time. Finally. My baby is back on the road . After 12 months & $7400. Only driven about 10 km's so far but bloody happy. All working well Thanks everybody for your help & advice.