Thats bad news, sorry to hear that Steinzy
Hi all just a quick message to make sure that if you haven't already done so I cannot emphasize enough the importance of changing the crankcase breather.
It was something that I had put off doing until the next service and it's something that I should have done as soon as I purchased the vehicle and now I am paying the price.
Noticed that there was dripping oil from back of engine near air filter. Degreased and changed air filter (that had oil on it) and spent $165 on a new style crankcase breather.
Unfortunately too little too late, driving the car 24 hrs later turbo has blown with the sound of metal on metal squealing!
So turbo will be coming out this weekend to be rebuilt!
Is it at all possible to remove turbo without taking intake manifold off? Could you strategically drill holes in the bottom of the air box to access the bolts to remove turbo from the bottom?
2023 Defender 130 D300
SOLD - 2010 Discovery 4 V8
SOLD - 2008 Range Rover Vogue L322 TDV8
SOLD - 2006 Range Rover Sport L320 TDV6
SOLD - 2002 Range Rover L322 TD6
SOLD - 2002 Discovery 2 TD5
SOLD - 1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
SOLD - 1999 Range Rover 4.0 SE
Thats bad news, sorry to hear that Steinzy
Bad luck mate, the turbo bolts are a PITA to get to, but it can all be done in situ without removing the manifold but it is much easier if it's not there. IIRC there are removable plugs in the bottom of the manifold - little metal plug type things. I ended up removing the inlet manifold to clean out all the crud in it. I think the biggest issue I had was getting one of the injectors out - I had to borrow a tool and slide hammer to do it. Be aware that anything that falls down the hole when you pull the injectors can cause big headaches - even a small bit of carbon if not removed entirely can do massive damage - I've seen it happen to another member on here - bent a piston skirt. Pulling the sump off to fix that was a huge job...
I ended up pulling the head off mine as when the stuck injector was removed, a heap of carbon fell into the engine - that means new head bolts, gasket and timing gear bolts, although I go to look inside my engine and it was still in VGC so happy about that.
Not sure what you're like swinging spanner a but an R&R of the head on these isn't really a beginners job. Hope you don't have to go that far.
Most places won't rebuild a VNT turbo, so just be aware that you may need a new one. If you've been hearing metal on metal, then it's probably too late for a rebuild anyway. Not sure where you are, but Rotomaster in Melbourne gave me excellent service when I bought mine.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Just read your info about changing filter.
Pulled out old air filter which was jet black, but dry, no oil stains.
Was going to change the crankcase breather but a line of cables run across the top.
How do you remove that filter.
Cheers Paul.
L322 3.6TDv8 Lux
Cheers. A hoist is no problem. I am stuck at the moment with 2 injectors that won't budge!
2023 Defender 130 D300
SOLD - 2010 Discovery 4 V8
SOLD - 2008 Range Rover Vogue L322 TDV8
SOLD - 2006 Range Rover Sport L320 TDV6
SOLD - 2002 Range Rover L322 TD6
SOLD - 2002 Discovery 2 TD5
SOLD - 1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
SOLD - 1999 Range Rover 4.0 SE
pretty sure others have hit injector issues too.
I followed this...
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rov...ow-too.253209/
L322 3.6TDv8 Lux
There's an updated crankcase breather as well so you don't have to change it every service.
Not sure of part number, but I got mine thru fleabay.
Hope you get it all changed over easily.
cheers
2014 Freelander SE TD4
2003 Range Rover TD6
92 disco tdi manual sold
95 disco tdi auto gone
Yeah, I had one that wouldn't budge. I borrowed an adaptor from my local injection shop (made from the top of an old injector), which attached to a slide hammer. I removed the top of the offending injector and screwed that on. It still took 10 minutes flogging the crap out of it to get it to move - I thought it would be toast when I got it out, but it was actually ok, and is still going.
If they are as stuck as that, no amount of penetrene or similar will shift it, the carbon will have cooked itself solid around the base.
As per my previous warning, make sure you get every spec of carbon that falls into the engine out of the cylinders when your ready to reassemble. I removed the head on mine just to be sure after seeing one of these engines bend a piston skirt due to this.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks