Thread: 113-372

G'day All,
I'm getting too many distractions, my mind is going flat out trying to keep focused, ex-wife annoying me after 27 years..
Today I have managed to bring back to life the RHS rear lights, making up all the right lengths of wire, unsweating old bullet connectors from the original harness, cleaning them and rsoldering them to the short lengths fitted to the lights. It annoys me that you can't buy one or two of anything these days, it all comes packaged in boxes of 50, I needed 5 of these terminals, and even then I had to drill them using a No13 drill to get clearance for a 2BA hex bolt (bolt hasn't been grit blasted/painted)



the bolt was taken from my supply of 2BA stuff and some other Land Rover screws

anyway after lunch I connected the battery and turned on the clearance lamps, they worked, also the turn signal flashes quickly (no front light thats why!!), I was happy with that, so I mounted the ARN as well

well thats been my day, it's now time to wind down, early tea/bed/ then get up for work, Im on a 10hour night shift, thats how I will see in 2012, cheers Dennis
ps the clearance lights are on,,.

G'day All,
A little time this afternoon after work, so I decided to check the integrity of the throttle bell crank, and it's effect on the carburettor.
I hooked up a battery, tipped some fuel down the throat of the Solex, hit the starter button and nothing happened, Hmm, I forgot that I had disconnected the coil etc from the ignition circuit when I was checking/playing with the blinkers, so I quickly rectified that, and away it went, the throttle did exactly what it should do.
I retrieved the LHS wing, and with the good wife helping/holding it I managed to get in 2 bolts to hold it in place, I then set about fitting a few more nuts n bolts. After checking the bonnet clearance, I tightened them all up, then fitted the Pioneering tool holders in place, after that I sat in position the Federal siren, gee it looks good,

I didn't leave it there for long, just in case it fell off LOL, I'm still in two minds as to whether I should leave it Black or paint it Red.
I also need to spend some time on the bumper bar that is on the floor under 113-372, it is fairly straight across the front but has damage in other places, I guess it will happen and soon, still a few items to attend too before fitting RHS wing, then I will fit all the lights etc, anyway cheers Dennis
ps here is a youtube clip of the siren for anyone who might be interested
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/user/staffy109?feature=mhee#p/u/14/ZsUD9U2XzaQ]staffy109's Channel - YouTube[/ame]

G'day All,
I'm over painting 113-372 in DBG, I should have painted it Olive Drab, it would have been finished 1 year ago. Today I repainted the outer RHS wing, it had runs in the paint, well after making it all smooth again etc I resprayed it this morning only to swmbo tell me I have new runs, thats the worst part of being colour blind and painting in the shade.
The doors (outer) got their second coat as well today, along with all the fancy nuts n bolts that hold the front half of the hood drip rails, anyway a picture of the messy job.


If I have to I will not redo the RHS outer wing until it's fitted, so I can paint out in the sunshine and drive the Land Rover back into the shade, grumble grumble, anyway cheers Dennis
ps 6th Jan, I have fitted both doors etc along with other items painted yesterday (except rhs wing) and it all looks good, I need to tie up some loose ends so to speak before fitting rhs wing, lousey weather here today, pleased I painted items yesterday,,.

G'day All,
Today I had limited time, as we had a planned family BBQ, so not to waste any time, I stripped two old wiring looms, one was from 113-372.
I noticed that the smoke had escaped from several places whilst cutting the old delapidated cotton braid anyway old wiring looms are a good source of coloured/trace plastic coated wire, you can use these in several areas as some items of the wiring do not come from Vinwire.

and after some time with suture scissors and stanley knife,

now I have a good supply of bullet connectors, I clean them first on the wire wheel (bench grinder), then unsolder them as required, as I know these are a good fit in the connectors as supplied by Vinwire, I don't bother with the 1/4" spade clips as they are readily available.
The other little job put away today was fitting the speedometer cable, the screws that were in 113-372 were a little sad and a mixture of hex/head & round head screws, so I dug out of my 2BA selection of nuts n bolts 3 x 2BA hex/head bolts. After determining the length needed they were cut and threads cleaned, 3 x 2BA spring washers and put into place

it's a fiddley job, lying on your back, with your bi-focals falling onto your eyeballs, the job is either just too far away n out of focus, anyway persistence paid off.
The trap for new players here is if you need a new speedo/cable, you need to cut off the old large washer that holds the cable into the speedo drive housing, as all new cables these days come without that washer, if you look closely at my picture you will see where I cut it through with a angle grinder, then you have to twist it off the old cable, refitting means putting the washer in a vice with speedo cable insitu, and bringing the edges back together.
My next trick was to route the cable over the top of the lhs chassis rail, under the lhs floor panel up over the bell housing to exit on the rhs of the bell housing, I needed swmbo to help for this one, anyway it was a success, well that was my day, cheers Dennis
ps this is how I reclaim the connectors, short length of wire, for safety

then using light pressure rotate it against the wire wheel

and yes the wheel is turning thats how I do it, cheers,,.

G'day All,
My other NOS laminated windscreen arrived yesterday, so after work this afternoon I started putting it all together. After setting up 2 portable saw horses (to low for my back) but I had nothing else to use, so I pressed on. After checking the frame to pick the high n low spots where it's welded together, I cut some 1.5mm insertion rubber to cushion the glass,

then liberally applied windscreen sealer from a caulking gun, gently lifting the screen into place, I use a strip of 1.5mm insertion rubber under the retainers, then fit the screws, once it is screwed down tight I cut off the unused insertion rubber with a stanley knife,

repeating this operation until I have gone completely round the screen edge, again repeating the operation on the other side,


job almost completed, only need now to wipe excess windscreen sealer off the front, then clean the glass, fit the screen to bulkhead, anyway cheers Dennis

G'day All,
It's Friday the 13th if you didn't know, well I know it is. Today I started to bleed the brakes on 113-372 as I wanted to fit the rhs wing and lights etc.
I started the procedure as per the Wksp manual, my good wife informed me that she thought she saw fluid drip from up under the bulkhead, at first I said 'don't worry about it' as it is most likely just water, I had bled the CB M/cyl and I had wet the area with water so as to dilute any brake fluid that was expelled with the air.
A very short time later she said I saw another drip, I answered 'who me!!', no you clown, it's coming down from under the dash, so I had a look n tasted it, yuk it was brake fluid.
I thought this should not be happening, as the cylinder was new bought from a reputable ebay seller in the UK, it is leaking from the back where the push rod goes in, not a very good picture,

but it is wet from 0500<<>>0700, and if the rubber boot was in place it would have a reasonable amount of fluid trapped.
I took a look through my stock of bits and I have a new CV brake M/cyl,

I also have 1/4" bundy tubing and 7/16"UNF fittings +3/8"UNF so I will remove the CB + fittings and put in the CV unit, why is it that sometimes just nothing goes right, anyway my rant for the arvo, cheers Dennis

G'day All'
This morning I bit the bullet so to speak, and R & R'rd the brake Master cylinder.

The first thing I needed to do was to empty the M/cyl reservoir, to achieve this I used a 25ml syringe (I got mine from work, it had been used but only with Normal Saline) and a short length of tubing, sucking out the fluid and putting it in a clean receptacle for later use


I also gloved up, to keep my hands relatively clean/free of brake fluid (disposable gloves n syringes can be purchased at most Pharmacies).
When I had emptied the reservior, I placed rags under the 1/4" inlet pipe, to catch any excess fluid that I hadn't got, I also had wet the area to dilute any splashes of brake fluid, I then undo the inlet/outlet pipes, move them out of the way, then undo the 6 x 5/16"UNF bolts that hold the pedal box to the bulkhead.
Before trying to move the pedal box, wrap a good heavy rag around the M/cyl, as there is always brake fluid in there, and sure as eggs when you start moving the pedal box it will pump brake fluid out all over your new paint

Now you have strip the pedal box of the master cylinder, and replace it with whatever your using, in this case it's a CV type.
Before I fit the CV cyl, I always check the integrity of the threads i.e., if the tube nuts don't screw in easily, I run a suitable (generally plug tap) tap through to clean the threads, to do this I hold the cyl upside down, that way debris (if any) cannot go up, it has to fall out, and again I always check for any debris before fitting

in this case it was 7/16" UNF, both threads work easy now, making it very easy on my arthritic fingers LOL.
After fitting the CV to the pedal box, and refitting the assembly to the bulkhead, I turned my attention to remaking the pipes, luckily I was still able to use the outlet pipe just as it was
Starting with the 1/4" bundy tubing, I worked roughly the length I needed, cut the tubing with a mini tubing cutter

the tubing is then placed into the flaring tool to have the excess removed and the burrs knocked off

I then set up the tubing at the correct height to perform a double flare, my tool is a 'Rigid' brand spares available at any 'Eagles' plumbing supplies, this is step 1


then remove button and complete the double flare

after removal from tool this is what you end up with,

you have to remember to fit your first tube nut here, because if you dont, you will not get it on after you bend the tube, here is the tube after it's first bend

next step is work out the length and where the next bend is going to be, I always use a permanent marker pen (Black) and mark the inside of the tube, where I know I have to bend it.
This is where you have to go through the same steps with the bundy tubing, making the ends square, etc, fit your other tube nut before you start the next flaring operation, make the double flare, then I carefully start the bend, I take the tubing out and check it against the job, making any alterations as I go, this is what I ended up with

when I'm satisfied with the bend etc, I try ti fit it up, in this case I was succesfull on my 1st attempt,

all I needed to do now ws etch prime the item and paint it, then fit it up

well all I have to do now is get outside and bleed the system, anyway cheers Dennis

G'day All,
Well it didn't quite go to plan, I had everything set up, started bleeding the rhs front, when I noticed fluid coming out of the outlet pipe flange.
This was where I used the old outlet pipe, it wouldn't nip up so there was nothing else to do except make a new pipe. It was a fiddley job but well managed in under 1 hour fitted, the system is now bled free of air, all thats left to do is adjust the shoes, maybe tomorrow as I promised the good wife I would mount her new retractable water hose, anyway the new pipe,

cheers Dennis
ps I will also have to check whether the steering will foul with the pipe, when on full right lock,,.
pps the retractable hose insitu, look at 'Diggers' mate 'Max' trying to look inconspicuos

everytime I go outside he is 2 steps behind me, certainly keeping tabs on me!! LOL