G'day All,
Gee old age has a lot to answer for, it has taken me almost 2hrs to fit those split pins, I concede that working in a confined space had something to do with it, anyway here is a pic of the rhs front
the lhs will have to wait until I have moved 113-372 out so I can get at them.
I had a little clean up this afternoon as well, I consigned about 5 full sets of hubs n stubs (S2/2A &S3) brake drums n backing plates, shock absorbers, 2 x sets of springs (109) and multitudes of other L/R related stuff to the scrap, and you can hardly notice where it was all sitting, anyway cheers Dennis
If there is any decent 2A LWB rear drums or front swivel hubs in amongst it all I'll gladly pay the postage
G'day All,
This morning after dropping off the good wife, and hanging 2 loads of washing on the line (still gotta mow etc) I repaired a rear exhaust mount, and made the underside of said clamp as it was missing.
I have had a very expensive exhaust clamp on 113-372 for some months but it's not available any more, I have checked the RPS
, the original top half of the clamp was broken, I don't what type of steel it was, but it wasn't the easiest to weld
I don't think it will break/snap off
after finding a suitable piece of 2mm steel, it was cut to width and shaped over the ram
all other small parts, 4 x 1/4"UNF nuts n bolts, 4 steel spacers (for the rubber/canvas mount) 2 flange plates were all cleaned etch primed n painted
then all that was left to do was fit it all up
well I had better get out n and attend to the lawn, before the rain comes back, swmbo has gone to sydney to see ?? love never dies?? opera? cheers Dennis
ps. all the items that I mentioned in a previous post went to scrap yesterday. Those who have been here will know space is at a premium, what with 9 Land Rovers, 2 x No5 trailers, 1 x No5 platform trailer (wksp), camper trailer, the wifes Astra, I am downsizing my pile of spares and other items, some highly sought after and expensive to buy, I will most likely list them on ebay. As for brake parts, I have 2 full sets for a 109, but I am keeping them to have them sleeved in stainless steel, and thats an expensive exercise in itself. I would look at at s/h 110 rear drums, as to my mind they look the same, the shoe width is the same 2 1/4", it would be a cheaper option rather than paying postage for something that will have wear on it, just my thoughts, hope that has'nt offended anyone,,.
I'll have to have a look through the Aladins Cave when I visit DennisI'm sure I can find room for a few little things.
Numpty
Thomas - 1955 Series 1 107" Truck Cab
Leon - 1957 Series 1 88" Soft Top
Lewis - 1963 Series 11A ex Mil Gunbuggy
Teddy5 - 2001 Ex Telstra Big Cab Td5
Betsy - 1963 Series 11A ex Mil GS
REMLR No 143
G'day All,
I'm getting closer to finishing 113-372, but with limited time after work
I thought I'd better get a move on with making and mounting the 12V siren
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZsUD9U2XzaQ"]113-372 MP Siren.avi - YouTube[/ame]
I had already marked and drilled ot the holes to mount it on top of the LHS wing, prior to painting in DBG, but I had to make a stiffening panel to fit up underneath the wing, to spread the weight evenly, you can see the where the stiffening plate (original, long gone) was
so I found a small piece of 3mm aluminium plate, marked it all out, set about cutting it out with a jig saw
and here it is cut to shape, edges draw filed etc
and now all locating holes etc drilled, etch primed and painted flat black
all the holes line with the corresponding holes in the wing.
Now this is the tricky bit for me, as I know BA about anything, I need to know if I can buy a ?? relay or something that will make this light work on/off (by itself) when a switch is activated??, the light is 12V, I took a picture of the back of it, it is a little off focus but I think you can still read what is stencilled on the back of the light
here is the front of the light
if anyone can point me in the right direction it would be appreciatted, thanks in anticipation, cheers Dennis
ps also is it possible to have something similar so that the siren fluctuates in volume??
Hi Dennis,
Sirens of that era had a single action either on or off, the ones used by Urban Appliances had a switch or foot operated button that was depressed and released to produce the wail of the siren in a upward tone to a downward tone.
I don't know if this is what your particular vehicle had.
The same went for the red lights, they were either on or off with no flashing, once again this applied to Urban Appliances.
Hope this helps.
Peter
Would fitting a blinker flasher in there work?
Shall ask at work tomorrow and if I have luck, will let you know
G'day Akk,
Managed to spend a few hours over the past couple of days on 113-372.
Scott, I have tried a flasher can, with the light on the siren and the can gets very HOT, very quickly!!, so I haven't looked any further into that matter, Firey did ring me to inform me that items like that on civvie street didn't flash/alternate, he was unsure about military applications other than bloodboxes.
Anyway I still had items that needed to be fitted to 113-372, rear seats were the order of the day. I have multiple frame sets some in better condition than others, so I chose the best set (naturally) and set about stripping them down.
As I have mentioned before, aluminium rivets tend to give way (snap off) after many years, most likely cause is electrolysis,
as you can tell by the crappy appearance of the head, but in this case they were to be removed anyway.
The panels were sanded down etch primed where needed and DBG applied after the cushions were masked up to prevent overspray, panels refitted with new rivets
next job was to find and clean 4 x 1/4"UNF bolts 3/4" in length with suitable washers n spring washers, grit blast and paint etc, refit the seats in the tub of 113-372
it all looks very neat, shame it isn't ready to hit the road as yet, but it will happen soon.
Late this afternoon I grit blasted the grille, and etch primed it, hopefully tomorrow I will repaint it gloss black, anyway cheers Dennis
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