Thread: 2a GS Refurb ARN 178-334

Yesterday I masked off & painted the area around the vent flaps.

Fitted a seal to the bottom of the tailgate this morning.

I sourced a lot of door seal material a few years ago but.....it turns out that the seal for the bottom & sides of the tailgate is different to the door seal. I'd checked on my SWB and it's a completely different profile.
I decided that if I cut some of the lip off the door seal material it should fit, hopefully I can close the tailgate once it's fitted.

I'd sourced galvanised steel strip and had a hole punch so simply a case of marking the hole locations and punching the holes. Inserting the strip into the seal needed some silicon spray. Next you have to locate the holes in the strip & cut holes in both sides of the seal, a sharpened wad punch came in handy.
I had a rivet squeezer and tooling for semi-tubular rivets, in fact I ended up modifying a G-clamp to take the tooling (and wondered why I'd spent all that money on the rivet squeezer !).

Some info & part numbers in this thread.
Series Land Rover door seal

Now have another car to deal with, a Holden Cruze ! Purchased for the eldest daughter to learn in.
Yes........ I've read about all the problems with the Cruze.
It had a Holden replacement auto box some years ago and it's not diesel or turbo petrol which were problematic.
It needs a water pump fitted, a couple of tyres a drivers door seal and one taillight.
At $1K it'll do while she learns.

15 of them in Jollys wreckers, hmmmm not sure what that's telling me ??


Colin

The steel strapping I'm using for the seals is 'zinc coated', turns out that means painted rather than plated !!
It probably won't matter as I don't suppose any of the Land Rovers will spend extensive periods outside in the weather and the strip is inside the seal.

This afternoon I thought I'd investigate the taillights before re-fitting them.
The bulb holders are painted camo green, the Army must have removed the lenses covered the globes & spray painted !
One sidelight wouldn't work, maybe a new globe needed ?
The PVC sleeving had gone hard so I decided to remove it, in the process I found the sidelight wire was broken. Soldered, shrink wrapped then the wires bound in insulation tape. It's surprising how much dirt & dust gets up inside the sleeving......

The earth lead connectors on the chassis were rusted & broken, looking around they are available from the UK but not cheap.

Using what I thought was zinc plated strip I found they wouldn't pass current, that's when I twigged they were painted.
Once the paint is removed they are the typical blued pallet strapping.

Pallet strapping stands up to the weather for quite some time so I'll use them until I find something better. I did consider a bolted earth connection instead or a spade earth connector as they are readily available.


I'll maybe order some 301 stainless strip from Ali Express, not sure how easy it'll be to form but worth a try.

Colin

I went to fit the scone cutters this morning and couldn't find the reinforcing plates that fit inside the crossmember so I had to make some ! They'll turn up when I least expect it.

Next I need to wire the rear lights but first, sort out the wiring for the headlights, sidelights indicators etc. at the front.

No charge light again, swapped the ignition switch then swapped it back and now have a charge light (must have been a dodgy contact somewhere).
Turned on the sidelights and got power to the connector for the drivers side but not the passenger side ! Must be a break in a wire somewhere. Need to remove the harness braid & investigate further. Then lost power to the sidelight after playing with the Blackout switch (had a similar problem with my FFR). The blackout switch also needs investigating !
No indicators but, strangely, there are two flasher units. Both are wired so need to trace a few cables from the TexMagna.

Most wires are PVC covered but some are PVC then covered with braid. Black wire with faded red braid ?? The braid is decomposing so I'll end up with a mostly black wiring harness !!

Part way through the day I needed a break so I made a tool for assembling the bullet connectors, I'm usually trying to shove the bullets into the joiners using a small screwdriver.

No power to the headlights so need to check the light switch & dipswitch. Last thing tonight I removed the dipswitch and under the wiring shield found a Scotchlock. More investigation tomorrow.



Colin

A few electrical issues tracked down this morning.

Headlight switch removed as it wasn't working properly, terminals cleaned and soaked in switch cleaner. After multiple operations it came back to life.
Similar problem with the dipswitch, fixed by cleaning & multiple operations.

Main problem seems to be the Blackout switch sometimes it supplies power to the headlight switch, sometimes it doesn't. I'm about to take it apart and see if it can be fixed.

Colin

The IIaGS now has headlights, sidelights & indicators ! Well sidelights & indicators at the front anyway.

The headlights came good once the Blackout switch was cleaned.
The indicators took a replacement flasher unit and the Tex Magna had to come apart & cleaned. There is a missing earth but when a temporary one was installed the warning light in the Tex Magna worked !
The windscreen wipers didn't work, switch removed and cleaned and they came good.
The map light worked once a globe had been installed !
Switching between fuel tank sender units seems to work OK.

There is an odd wire which was attached to the flasher unit. It seems to control the light by the Blackout switch, I'm not sure if the light should be ON when Blackout is selected or ON when it isn't selected......minor problem.

The Blackout switch came apart quite easily, the contacts were dirty. I cleaned them up and stretched the springs that push the contacts into place. The body was re crimped to hold it back together. Picture attached.

Hopefully I can lay under the back and start to sort out the taillights & rear indicators tomorrow.


Colin